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Wild Coconuts & Antonio Pigafetta |
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After promoting my web page Coco Loco
shamelessly
to all and sundry, including, very presumptuously, Hugh
Harries,
author of
Coconut Timeline and many important scientific
papers, and
probably the world's
foremost expert on coconuts, I received a strange request from
him. He asked me if I could, sometime, just pop across from my
island to Suluan, the first island where Ferdinand Magellan
struck land in the
Philippines, described by Magellan's
amanuensis, Antonio Pigafetta , as
'teeming with coconuts', and see if I could
find some wild ones.
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On a world map, Suluan is only within spitting distance
of my Philippine island, Siargao
- about 100 miles, as the tuna swims.
I had to let him down gently. There was no way that I
would risk my own 25 ft pumpboat going directly to Suluan,
straight north along the Philippines' continental shelf edge,
right into the typhoon belt. Relying on its old and very
badly-maintained 14hp motor, I might find myself washed up in
Fiji or Los Angeles (without health insurance?) half a year
later. (Late news - I was just told, by someone who has done
the trip, that it only takes about 6 hours from GL to Suluan
by pumpboat - but who wants to be a hero ?)
The alternative was to take a 2 day launch and ferry
trip to Cebu City, another full day ferry/bus trip to Tacloban
in Leyte, an overnight ferry to Guiuan in Samar, perhaps a
jeepney to the end of Samar, and hope I could pick up a boat
to Suluan. Five days there, and who knows how much time back?
No way.
All Magellan
had to do to hit my island instead of Suluan was tack a couple
of degrees more to port.
Perhaps, I replied, I might find some primordial wild
coconuts in my own island, Siargao.
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Well, I did.
But
first, let's see what Antonio Pigafetta had to say about coconuts,
500 years ago. |
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Pigafetta's account of coconuts was one of the
first to be read in the Western
world. |
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"In March 1521, after escaping the thieves in the
place they christened Ladrones Island (Guam, much the
same now as it was then), they (Guam,
much the same now as it was then), they
(Magellan & his scurvy crew) sailed
toward Samar and anchored on an island south of Samar called
Suluan.
Magellan ordered tents set up by the beach. While they
were resting there and fetching fresh water, a boat with nine men on
board arrived. Magellan offered food and drink to the men who were
ornately dressed and later presented some fabulous (to him) gifts to
what he presumed were heathen primitive natives. The gifts consisted
of red caps, mirrors, combs, bells and other trinkets. In return,
the men gave Magellan fish, a jar (earthenware
or perhaps even Oriental ceramic vessel) with palm
wine they called “vraca” and bananas
which Pigafetta, who was seeing them for the first
time, described as "figs more than a foot long." (Probably
the local variety of cooking plantains - tinduk). They were also given smaller better-tasting bananas
and two coconuts.
Due to the language barrier, the men spoke in sign
language and made it understood that they would return in four days
with rice, other types of food, and, again, coconuts. So Pigafetta
describes the coconut and its uses in great
detail: |
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"...Just as we have bread, wine, oil and vinegar in
their several kinds, these people have the aforesaid things which
come only from the palm trees. Wine is obtained from these in the
following manner. They make an aperture into the heart of the tree
at its top which is called palmito, from which is distilled along
the tree a liquor like white must, which is sweet with a touch of
greenness. Then they take canes as thick as a man's leg, by which
they draw off this liquor, fastening them to the tree from the
evening until next morning, and from morning to the evening so that
the said liquor comes little by little".
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This mananggutay (tuba gatherer) is doing exactly
the same as Pigafetta described 500 years ago. The
only Western professions so consistent in
their practice for so long are priesthood and
prostitution. |
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"This tree bears a fruit named cocho*, which is as
large as the head, and its first husk is green and two fingers
thick, in which are found certain fibers of which those people make
the ropes by which they bind their boats. Under this husk is
another, very hard and thicker than that of a nut. The second husk
they burn and make of it a powder that is useful to them. And under
said husk there is a white marrow of a finger's thickness, which
they eat fresh with meat and fish, as we do bread, and it has the
flavor of an almond, and if it were dried it would make bread.
(Poor Pigafetta
had had no fresh-baked bread for about a year).
From the center of this marrow there flows a water
which is clear and sweet and very refreshing, and when it stands and
settles it congeals and becomes like an apple. And when they wish to
make oil, they take this fruit called cocho and put it in the sun
and let said marrow putrefy and ferment in the water, then they boil
it, and it becomes oil like butter.
When they wish to make vinegar, they let the water
of the said cocho ferment and put it in the sun, which turns it into
vinegar like white wine. From the said fruit milk can also be made,
as we proved by experience. For we scraped the marrow, then mixed it
with its own water, and being passed through a cloth it became like
goat's milk. This kind of palm is like the palm tree that bears
dates, but not so knotty. And two of these trees will sustain a
family of ten persons."
Ambeth Ocampo - Philippine Inquirer |
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Magellan sailed on to Homonhon island, then to
Limasawa, where he held the first Christian Mass (and set in
train many of the troubles of the Philippines over the next
half a millenium). I think it more likely that he sailed
directly to Mazaua, a well-established city at the mouth of
the Butuan river on 'mainland' Mindanao. Limasawa is a small
island, with only about one village, and no
harbour, that you pass in the early morning on the boat
from Cebu City. |
| He also landed in Cebu
City, and was killed in a fracas on Mactan island with Chief
Lapu-Lapu - after whom a prized fish (the whole grouper
family) and a small city have been named. (Although the people
who live there still call it O-pon).
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Pigafetta calls the nut cocho - this doesn't sound
like the 'coco' (Spanish) = 'monkey' often given as the origin of
'coconut'. (Magellan was Portuguese and Pigafetta a Venetian).
Perhaps in the local Suluan/Samar dialect, the word really was
'kotcho'. Or perhaps, being an Italian, Pigafetta
was just used to the hard 'ch'.
Similaly 'vraca' wine doesn't sound at all like the
modern 'tuba' - I suspect that word came from Mexico - the
Spanish were masters in denigrating the 'Indios' of the
Philippines (who looked exactly like the Aztecs and Incas they'd
previously decimated with the help of the Great God, smallpox) and
positive pedagogues in imposing their own language. To this day,
Filipinos count ordinary things in their own dialects, but 'alien'
things, like cash, dates, times, and so on, in Spanish.
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Back to Top |
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Well, I did find some...
During a trip to look at Mangroves
just along the coast from my town, I happened to look at some coco
trees
at the (back) mangrove margins.
From his very smart resort , Pansukian, Nicolas Rambeau has built a raised
timber walkway back into the
Union
mangrove swamp - it makes a nice sheltered
spot to keep boats.
It
also makes mangrove exploring a great deal easier.
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Lo
and behold, there they were, wild coconuts, all around us among the
ordinary domesticated ones.
Long
thin husks, the nuts about the size of a goose egg.
Unfortunately, from the vantage point of the walkway, and
after tramping around in mangrove mud, the trees themselves, and
their crowns about 30ft above us, were quite
unreachable.
The
'leaf rings' on the trunk are much closer together than on the
domesticated coconuts, so presumably these grow more slowly. They're
only average height, but may be much older than the intermixed
domesticated trees.
Everything else about these trees looked much the same as
ordinary domesticated coco palms, but maybe they could do with a
closer look. |
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That
day, we recovered just one rotten
nut.
It was a
start. |

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| The next day, we tried harder, got off
the walkway , climbed down into deep squelchy mud and impenetrable
mangroves, collected some tissue samples, and (I hope) generally did
the Right Thing. |
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The inner nut,
(7cm x 4.5 cm) while not so large as a domesticated nut
(11x12) has about the same thickness (about 1cm) of flesh, but
much less water - (23cc flesh in wild coconut, 93cc in
domesticated* - quadrupled). But the water/air volume goes up from
9cc to 105cc - 12x |
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Were nuts
human-selected primarily for water-carrying capacity? Fresh coconut
water, with its own insulation, tastes cooler, sweeter, purer, and
fresher by far than a glass or plastic bottle of Coke, after a
sun-drenched trip by boat or on foot.
Or did people
select the biggest ones as water tanks, ballast, buoyancy aids, fire
material, and food reserves on long raft or boat trips?
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The husks are
about the same length (20cm) as a domesticated coconut, with a
distinctive 'waist' so they don't seem to have been 'selected for
longer fibre length' as recently suggested - but perhaps that writer
saw a 'wild-looking' nut on a truly Oceanic island where such a
selection might have been very useful.
The top end is
proportionately more fibre-packed (and swollen) than a domesticated
nut.
Surprise, surprise
- this helps it float germinating end up. It's a perfect natural
buoy, and if it wasn't so damned edible, would probably still be
used for that. A naval architect (perhaps He was one) could not have
done better:
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The centre of
gravity is low down, and has its own sub-buoyancy control (air
& water)
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The whole thing
is (almost) water-tight, but the top of the inner nut and and the
top of the husk have weak points to allow leaf sprouts and roots
relatively easy exit routes. The one we cut open already has a
tiny germination point, and 'vertical' striations on the husk
suggest that it is just about to split open and sprout.
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When it lands,
the nut falls over - the roots have only 5cm to reach ground,
instead of 5+20 if it stayed upright.
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It also rolls -
back down the beach, into the water - until the highest wave from
the highest tide pitches it up onto almost safe dry land. The husk
has a definitely triangular cross-section, but more 'rounded',
without the definite 'keels' that many domesticated nuts
have.
I don't know if
these are the niu kafa type of nut suggested by Hugh Harries
as 'the ancestral, naturally-
evolved, wild-type coconut, disseminated by
floating'
but I
don't think he could have a more convincing
model to show his theory, even if he made it
himself. |
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Wild coconuts,
Layaaw, are plentiful in the
mangroves. They only grow very near the sea. Nobody bothers with
them very much. Which leads to a host of questions:
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Did they arrive
by sea and not make it very far inland?
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Exactly how far
can coconuts make it inland without human help?
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Have ancient
natural groves been cut down years ago for new model coconuts?
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Presumably, if
they grow slower, the wood is tougher - were they at all valued
for timber? (Coco lumber is about all that is left now
for building here).
Back to Top |
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Or are they maybe
just pathologically weakened domestic coconuts ?
Wild Nuts and Sick Nuts |
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Since I first
wrote this, I have been seeing 'wild' coconuts everywhere. One was
even left behind after the owner harvested the nuts from my rented
garden. But these are genuinely sick nuts - ones that, for one
reason or another, have not developed because of a lack of water -
these are the buang nuts - the
crazy ones.
My neighbours are
well aware of the quite different wild coconuts (they call
them layaaw or payaw)
and tell me they are frequent in mangrove areas.
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Sick Nut -
(Buang) |
Wild Nut -
(Layaaw) |
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This
seedling I took home, to plant in my garden. A year later, it
is not doing to well. It has suffered at least one attack by
Rhinoceros beetle, and a fallen coconut from a nearby
cousin. |
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The Buang nuts have the same overall
shape as the wild Layaaw
ones, but are bigger, and the waist is generally 'pinched'
looking, compared with the wild nut's somewhat elegant and
shapely waist. The flesh inside is meagre and undeveloped,
while the wild nut's flesh is just as fully developed (and
delicious) as is a good quality domestic nut's. They can be
found on the same trees as healthy nuts. They don't germinate
very well, unlike the wild
nuts. | |
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Finding
Wild Coconuts doesn't sound like much of a discovery, but it has
important implications for the history of mankind.
Siargao Island might well be the ancestral
home of all coconuts.
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It's almost as
if an archaeologist, stumbling around a swamp, came across a
living ancestor of mankind - a little skinnier, and not quite as
presentable, but recognizably human, just as the wild Layaaw is recognizably coconut.
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Coconuts have
been floating across oceans and to and from islands like mine for
millenia, if not for several million years.
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Humans have also
been here for a very long time (in the Philippines' Northern Luzon
(Cagayan Valley) for about 700,000 years, and in Java, just a wee
bit south, for about 1.8 million years.
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So coconuts and
humans have had a very long time to get acquainted.
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Just suppose
(or Just So ?) Ms* Homo erectus, out foraging while her
husband 'hunted' big game (stegodon elephants in the Philippines
in those days, but only tarsiers and tree shrews now) picked up
just one extra fat, large wild coconut, got fed up with waiting
for dear hubby (out with the lads again) and left it for later -
just there. *I am not all sure of the status of
marriage that far BC, and I hate political
correctness, so I use what I understand is the term for
'common-law' wives, or even multiple or sequential
ones.
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The long story
of the 'domestication' of the coconut - one of the most
miraculously providing fruits in the world - might well have
started at just that moment.
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If the good Ms H. erectus found some of these, a
new batch every month, and a hatchling on the ground under the
tree, she may well have put two and two together and made five.
Behold the very beginnings of agriculture!
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Did she
have enough sense for that, being only, in (H sapiens)
terms, a half-wit ?
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Steven Mithen ('The Prehistory of the Mind' - Thames &
Hudson 1996) doesn't seem to think so - but then he once suggested
that the classical bifacial handaxes,
made for over a million years by Homo erectus and his successors
were really phallic symbols made by displaying
males, while the women made the practical tools, as usual. He is
just about to publish a new book, claiming 'Neanderthal voices were loud, womanly and
probably highly melodic....They must have been able to communicate
complex ideas and even spirituality'. Presumably they sang
in the bath, like many semi-aquatic mammals. I would humbly
suggest they weren't communicating complex ideas and spirituality
at all, but sitting around half-sozzled and singing the
Neanderthal version of 'My Way'.
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He is also a 'classical' palaeoanthropologist who still
believes apes came out of the forests onto the wide-open savannah,
where they gambolled in the sunshine, stole meat from lions,
jackals, hyaenas, and vultures (or their truly horrendous
ancestors) and, just so, became the human beings we all love
today.
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Mr & Ms H.
erectus (and later human species strandloping along the coasts of
the Indian Ocean over the next 2 million years) had no idea they
were supposed to press on East and discover America.
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So, just as many
of them were coming back and forth the other way. It takes no more
than a moment's calculation to show that coconuts could easily
have been subconsciously selected for larger size and fleshiness,
and transmitted by humans back West to India and Africa somewhat
quickly. Perhaps in less than the 10,000 years it has taken
us to develop from the very beginnings of classical grass
agriculture to the complexities and insanities of agricultural
subsidies and monoculture crops 'designed' to survive the death
and destruction of all around them by vicious herbicides.
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Could Ms H
erectus' finding of the first coconut be the real origin of the
story of Eden, and the reason why only some of Ms H.e's
descendants still live in paradise, while most of them just exist
in places like Birmingham, Pittsburgh, Shanghai, Mexico City, and
Cairo, with not a coconut to be seen ?
Furthermore, I don't think wild coconuts are all that rare in
the Philippines - during idle chatter with a 'professional' lady of
my acquaintance, she told me that her grandparents' graves in
Toledo, South Cebu, had a pair growing above them.
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Back to Coconut Studio Index Page
Richard Parker - Siargao Island -
March 2005 (Last updated Monday, May 08, 2006)
I welcome comments or corrections on my
site and opinions, so please feel free to email me at:
richardparker01@yahoo.com
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