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Last updated: 08 May 2006

Seashore Foraging & Fishing Study

Shoreline Reptiles

All of these reptiles live, or often come to, within the shoreline - twenty minutes walk back on the land side or anywhere you can wade to on the sea side. 

All of them live in my Philippine island, or, if they've been hunted out on the island itself, very near indeed, on 'mainland' Mindanao.

And all of them (or their close cousins) live all along the coastline from South Africa to Australia and China. 

Any Early Human who ambled along that vast ecotone - the biggest in the world - would have found the same familiar foodstuffs almost every step of the way (and some better ones the further they went). There was no reason at all for Homo erectus to 'evolve more intelligence' to 'deal with new game animals' after he 'went out of Africa'. 

It was just the same old stuff, procured in the same old ways, and dear old Homo erectus could carry on as he always had; as indeed he did, for close on 2 million years.

Don't go much further if you feel very sentimental about animals - this website, remember, is primarily about FOOD.

 

A man seldom thinks with more earnestness of anything than he does of his dinner.

Samuel Johnson

Food dominates the life of the Filipino. People here just love to eat. They eat at least eight times a day. These eight official meals are called, in order: breakfast, snacks, lunch, merienda, pica-pica, pulutan, dinner, and no-one-saw-me-take-that-cookie-from- the-fridge-so-it-doesn't-count. The short gaps in between these mealtimes are spent eating Sky Flakes from the open packet that sits on every desktop.

SIGNS IN DA PILIPINS

Pawikan - Turtles

Turtles are damned good to eat - and pre-packaged - flip a turtle on its back over some hot coals and let it simmer - a Cornish Pasty with some oomph.

Turtles were certainly carried as pre-packaged fresh meat on sailing ships - probably for millenia.

Only two are at all common on Siargao Island - the Green and the Hawksbill, and both are still eaten. I've seen an elegantly dressed lady walking down the street with the turtle lunch balanced neatly on her head. (And one day, I'll have my camera with me).


Green turtle laying its eggs in the Philippines

Turtles are photogenic and very easy to photograph (they don't usually run away), so they appear on TV (PBS, BBC and National Geographic) often. They have big, sad eyes, and are beloved by the same people that think pandas deserve special treatment.

WWF sponsored by Canon 

Ask those same sad sentimentalists how they'd treat a cockroach (or even a hamburger), and you'll get a very different answer.

If you really want to know what a cockroach feels about the world, go and see Archy

During the 18th and 19th centuries, so many turtles were shipped to Europe (mostly by the British, who controlled most of the Indian Ocean and much of the Pacific) that turtles became almost scarce, and 'Mock Turtle Soup' had to be invented, made from calves' heads.

Geographer on the Kiwai Coast

Geographer on the Kiwai Coast

Green turtle (Chelonia mydas)

Geographer on the Kiwai Coast

Capturing green turtle, New Guinea

"U. S. Army Lt. A. W. Greely led an Arctic scientific expedition that headquartered at Fort Conger. The outpost seems (sic) quite snug in May 1883, meteorological equipment in place. The dark and the cold were offset by a trencherman's larder. One Christmas menu: "Mock-turtle soap (sic), salmon, fricasseed guillemot, spiced musk-ox tongue, crab-salad, roast beef, eider ducks, tenderloin of musk-ox, potatoes, asparagus, green corn, green peas, cocoanut pie, jelly cake, plum pudding with wine sauce, ice cream, grapes, cherries, pineapples, dates, figs, nuts, candies, coffee, chocolate! Eggnog, rum and cigars were handed around later."

© 1993-2003 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

I really do think that if Bill Gates insists on copyrighting things like "Mock-turtle soap (sic)" then he deserves all the lawsuits he gets.

Now that's a real Arctic diet - mock turtle, grapes, cocoanut, pineapple, figs ? They really made American heroes in those days.

Turtle, green, raw - Nutrition Data


Green Turtles are probably the tastiest; Hawksbills are a little too skinny.

 

In Sandakan, Sabah (Northern Borneo) the Turtle Islands lie just offshore. The islands belong to the Philippines somehow (one of those political map games) but turtle eggs are sold in the Sandakan seafood market. Two kinds - one is white, like a duck egg, and the other is longer, and pale green. I forgot to ask which was which, but both were delicious, raw, with a sprinkle of chopped onion and ginger.


Green turtle swimming with remora fish on its back.

Turtle ID - Know Your Lunch

Flatback (Natator depressus)

Tropical Australia and possibly southern New Guinea

To about 90kg

Green (Chelonia midas)

Found in all tropical, sub-tropical seasUp to 230kg in Atlantic & West Pacific, less in Indian Ocean & Caribbean

Hawksbill (Eretmochelys imbricata)

Found in all oceans (tropical waters)

Up to 80kg, average 60kg

Loggerhead (Caretta caretta)

All oceans, usually temperate waters, sometimes tropical and sub-tropical

To 180kg in W Atlantic, less than 100kg in Mediterranean

Leatherback (Dermochelys coriacea)

All oceans, sub-Arctic to tropical

Adult female up to 500kg in Atlantic, less in E Pacific

Kemps' Ridley (Lepdochelys kempii)

Gulf of Mexico, eastern USA, occasionally W. Europe.

Typically 35-50kg

Black (Chelonia sp)

East Pacific Ocean

To about 120kg (Average 70kg)

Olive Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea)

Tropical Pacific, Indian, South Atlantic Oceans

Typically 35-50kg

And for those of you who prefer the little ones crispy-fried, sunny side up:

www.meer.org


 
Chockful o' Goodness!  

Turtle eggs - a hundred or so, buried fresh in the beach sand - would be a bonus find for a beachcomber. The turtle's strategy of laying a lot of eggs, which hatch at the same time, works well against predators like seabirds and monitor lizards, who can only eat one or two at a time, and can't take a few more home to keep.

Their mating and egg-laying methods and times are also fairly predictable. After laying, there is a conspicuous and instantly recognisable track left for any discerning beach comber, and a easily memorable store of accessible protein.

Turtle eggs taste, somehow, a bit 'chalkier' than hens' eggs, but they must, like any other eggs, concentrate all the goodness a real mother can give. 

Ba'o - Box Terrapin - Cuora amboinensis

This must be a terrapin, weighing about 500gm, but it looks more like a tortoise than those flat little ones we get in Europe and North America.

This species is common all over South East Asia, living in creeks and ponds.

It has no spectacular or very nasty habits, so is not very interesting.

But it has kept the same very successful form for maybe 100 million years. That's success.

 

Slow Prey

Ofer Bar-Yosef has been excavating the caves of Kebara, Qafzeh, and Hayonim, in Palestine, for nearly a quarter of a century now. He is best known for showing that Neanderthals and Homo sapiens almost co-existed in his caves for over 500 centuries. 

Somewhat less known, though, is his work on what they ate over those years:

"Taken together, the caves yield data covering the period from 200,000 to 10,000 years ago.....First, they found that as they dug deeper into the past, slow-moving prey like tortoises and shellfish constituted a greater proportion of the human diet. Not until the Upper Paleolithic period (44,000 to 19,000 years ago) did the consumption of fast-moving prey like hares and birds begin to increase steadily."

Harvard Magazine 1999

Now, take a look at this picture of the view from Hayonim Cave:

That's a great sand beach just out there. (You can see the surf from 5 km away). Ideal for sea turtle hatching. (Not so much now, after the Ashkenazi have taken over, but until 60 years ago, sure).

That little sea, the Mediterranean, has been rising and falling for a million years or a lot more. More than probably, it once lapped the very foot of Mt. Carmel, just below these caves. Which might have been where the shellfish came from.

 

It takes a closed mind to propose that early humans, 2000 centuries ago, just lived in caves and caught tortoises (8" long) but hadn't the wit to go just over there and find (and eat on the spot) sea turtles (about 4-6ft long).

A 'simple graphic' accompanied the article. Perhaps the illustration of a Galapagos tortoise instead of a Palestinian one was just a slip.

It purportedly showed a  long, almost logarithmic 'slow grade' from 250,000ya to the last tortoise population crash within the very last 10th of that time

Between about 250mya and 30mya, there are just 4 sampling points, at ~250mya, ~160mya, ~90mya, then nothing until ~20mya. The 'consumption of slow prey' shows a slow decline, from ~95% 250mya to about 90% 100mya. That's a pretty slow attrition rate for a tortoise species with a long gestation period and infrequent births. You might think that Homo sapiens could have seen his packed lunches ambling slowly across the landscape, and cleaned them all up in very short order.

That didn't happen - according to this graphic, humans only wiped out about a third of the tortoise population over the next 75,000 years. Then, ~ 30000BC, the tortoise consumption rose, by about 20%, fell again by 15000BC, rose again and then crashed from ~7000BC. (By 7000BC, there was a human population boom brought on by agriculture).

The Atlantic slave trade began as a trickle in the 1440s and grew slowly through the 17th century. By 1700, 25,000 slaves, on average, were crossing the Atlantic every year. After 1700 the trade grew much more rapidly to a peak in the 1780s, when an average year saw 80,000 African slaves arrive on American shores. Then the trade fell off more slowly and after 1850 quickly declined.  

A 'simple graphic' could show all kinds of possible correlations and deductions, depending on the agenda of the draughtsman: exhaustion of African slave resources, slave owners getting nicer, change from plantation agriculture to industry, and any of them could easily ignore the abolition of slave importation in Britain and the US in the early 1800s. 

So don't always put too much trust in 'simple graphics'.

The archaeologists were not sampling the actual tortoise population - they were sampling the remains of what they thought had  been eaten by humans.

The caves they were digging, covering a 'period from 200,000 to 10,000 years ago', might, during all that vast time, have been used by other animals.

Hyaenas were frequent in Palestine until the 20th century, and eagles (and tortoises)  still are.

An eagle who mistook a bald pate for a rock dropped a fatal tortoise on the head of the Greek dramatist Aeschylus, who had already written about three times as many classical plays as Shakespeare.

Eagles, hyaenas, or even leopards might just as easily have dumped those bones.

And who on earth would want to live in a cold, damp, dripping cave? In the dry, hot summer months, a cave might be just the place for a family 'hunting trip', ie holiday. In Northern Europe, when 300ft high glaciers were just up at the head of the valley, a cave might have been a bit warmer. But the idea that these 'natural shelters' were lived in continuously or for long periods gives perhaps just as unrealistic a picture of 'Stone Age life' as the Flintstones.

Lizards

Bibang - Water Monitor - Varanus salvator marmoreus

Bibangs taste surprisingly good, like native chicken; a bit tough but flavourful. This is a young one; older ones are less colourful. It's quite small  at 1.40m, weighing only 2.1kg, but would still make a substantial family lunch.

The largest water monitor I have ever seen was crossing a road, blocking traffic in Sri Lanka. It spanned nearly two (narrow) traffic lanes, but, under the circumstances, I didn't measure it accurately.

The water monitor is not a very lovable animal. It is normally a carnivore, eating frogs, fish, and so on, and often carrion. Its mouth opens wider than its head, so it can swallow much larger prey.

Water monitors are quite intelligent, and very good climbers. Mine was tethered to a coconut tree, and learned how walk backwards to unwind the rope from the tree trunk. He also realised that the tree became narrower above its base, loosening the rope loop, and climbed to the very top.

He became thoroughly tangled in the fronds and coconuts, and could neither go further up, or come down. He might have worked it out eventually, but I really wanted him back.

I had to engage Uyong the Mad Diver (who once dived 70 metres with just a compressed air hose and a large stone, to retrieve a tangled shell net for me) to go up and get him.

Had I been able to climb, barefoot, up a coco trunk as quickly as he did, I still wouldn't have gone. The thought of disentangling an angry 5 ft lizard with a fearsome bite was way beyond what I would consider as my duty.

 

Practical Experience

Just this afternoon, (17/2/06) as I was writing this, one of my  monitor lizards died, suddenly. I'd ignorantly fed it a fat freshwater eel, and it choked to death (An eel's a bit more than a quick gulp). 

I was suddenly faced with the need to get its skeleton, skull, and skin intact, so I proceeded to butcher, then and there. 

Skinning an animal you've just killed, I'm told by 'real' hunters,  is a visceral, emotional experience, reaching back to our supposed  'meat-hunting' forefathers in the Palaeolithic.

It's not at all like that when the damn thing has just died and you have to take it apart.

I soon appreciated that a small sharp flint flake or piece of broken shell would have served me a lot better than the array of Stanley, Escoffier, and other specialist modern knives I tried to use.

They were too big, too sharp, and altogether too clumsy to skin the animal properly. I really needed a sharp rock or a clam shell (the choice of the local pig skinners) to hold between my thumb and two first fingers.

I was quite chuffed to see that Bong, who I called in to finish the job off when I got stuck with the legs, didn't do a lot better.

I now have somewhat more respect for the stone tool expertise of Palaeolithic terrestrial hunters, but I still don't believe that the obsessive and detailed study of stone tools (bifacials, secondary retouching, and all that) will teach us much about the intellectual progress of Early Humans. But I do understand the need for academics to make the very best of what little they have.

It did, after all, take more than a million years to progress from the 'General Purpose Biface' to something a bit better.

Somewhere between 500,000 years ago, and the other afternoon, humans learned they needed something a bit better, and the genius of Messrs Stanley and Escoffier came to the fore. It's gratifying, though, to know that, if you just had a hunk of 'General Purpose Biface' around to knock another useful flake off, you'd have been better off.

In the eight years I've spent in this island town and eaten well, of locally caught sea foods, this was the first opportunity I've had to skin a terrestrial animal, apart from a chicken. A fish is easy; you snick! in a certain place, then peel off the skin. Shellfish don't need more than a bash and a scoop. 

Small wonder that Asian Homo erectus didn't seem to bother much to develop more sophisticated rock tools than crude choppers. There, virtually no one used stone, or anything other than bamboo, bone, and shell until malleable bronze and iron came along.

Water monitors are found throughout the Old World Tropics, from Africa to Australia (goannas) and would have been very familiar to any Early Humans near lakes, rivers, and the seashore. 

The Komodo Dragon (Varanus komodoensis) is a giant version of a water monitor, living on a couple of  small Indonesian islands. Formerly many such islands had their own giant species of water monitors.

For more on the Asian Monitor see: R:e:p:t:i:l:i:a 

Unique and threatened reptiles in the Philippines include the fruit-eating Gray's monitor (Varanus olivaceus), and a newly discovered monitor lizard, Varanus mabitang, from Panay, only the second monitor species known in the world to specialize on a fruit diet.

Biodiversity Hotspots - The Philippines - Unique and Threated Biodiversity

Ibid - Philippines Sailfin Water Dragon - Hydrosaurus pustulatus 

This one was a bit of a mystery. She came from the river bank just up at Tawin-Tawin, (see GL Map)

and she runs very, very fast. They are reputed to be able to run across water. 

Earlier information I found on the internet mostly showed males of the species, with much larger 'fins' on the tail, and an altogether uglier visage. Mine, I think, must be a female.

I'm not at all sure what she eats, but we'll try her on fish, meat, fruit, and anything at all until she has a good snack. I did hope she would like cockroaches, rats and mice, so I kept her in the kitchen for a couple of nights. All she did was change colour to a dull, all-over brown, and start to slough her old skin. She's 95cm long overall, and weighs just 700gm, but 2/3 of that length is skinny tail. 

Not a 3 star roast.

(Update: Twice this week, the Ibid has caught and eaten a fish. There's a local freshwater goby, Bunog, that the local kids catch by hand and bring to me by the dozen (I also have two herons to feed). The fish has a habit of resting half in and half out of the water, so it's ideal food for the Ibid.)

Tambuka'ka - Flying Lizard - Draco (volans?)

These quite small lizards really do fly - or at least, glide, for very long distances. I've seen one coast, without losing height, for at least 25 metres between coconut tree trunks.

They also seem to be able to control their flight very well, always landing upright, with a kind of upward swoop at the very last moment.

They're well-camouflaged, and are only really noticeable when you do catch one, out of the corner of your eye, actually in flight, or landing.

Of course, they won't fly to order, or whenever my camera's been ready, so I've got no photographs showing them actually in flight.

They also use their brightly coloured 'wings', and the webbed gular flap beneath their throats as threat signals. So I've had to make them a wee bit upset to be able to show them off.

Their wings are actually expanded ribs.

They eat insects, and are far too small and bony to make a decent meal for a human.

Flying lizards are common in South East Asia, but this particular species is different to the common Draco volans, and may be restricted to just this part of the Philippines.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tiki - Common House Gecko - Gekko gekko

Geckos are very much a component of every South East Asian household, and probably of most parts of the tropical world.

I like them, because I keep hoping, vainly, they will rid my house of mosquitoes, at least.

Regrettably, they don't seem to be able to tackle cockroaches, and show no great taste for ants, both of which are also constant denizens of my household.

They are also somewhat stupid, and rush around the ceiling, either threatening and chattering at other geckos who encroach on their territory, or trying, in vain, to catch moths and other conspicuous insects which are far too big for them.

Their amazing ability to stick to ceilings is due to their foot pads, which have adapted scales on each toe, with quite wonderful adherance powers. Their bellies and tails also have rudimentary flaps that help suction.

But not that wonderful; every so often, one will suddenly drop from the ceiling, with a damp plop!, usually onto you, your evening drink, or your computer keyboard. Then they show a moment's bewilderment, and skitter off.

 

Tabili - Emerald Green Skink - Lamproletis smaragdinus

These are very beautiful creatures, common on tree trunks.

They can grow to about 20cm (8"), exluding the tail, and would make tasty mouthful or two. 

They live on an undistinguished diet of insects and seeds.

(I thought, while I wondered where my geckos went)

Another skink has turned up - I don't know what soecies. Watch this space.

Buwaja - Crocodile - Crocodylus porosus

Eclosión, cría saliendo del huevo

Crocodile eggs, 20 to 90 in number and about the size of goose eggs, are buried in sand, mud, or vegetable debris, where they are left to hatch by the heat of the sun or of vegetable decomposition. The temperature of the incubation determines the sex of the emerging crocodiles. Females come from the lower, cooler eggs.

Like any other eggs, they are highly nutritious, and can easily be found by a knowledgeable beachcomber on river and estuary banks, in backshore lagoons, or behind mangrove swamps, but very seldom on the open shore. 

They must be harvested quickly, though; water monitors are estimated to eat approximately half of all crocodile eggs laid. 

They must also be harvested with care; crocodiles are unique among reptiles in caring for, and protecting their eggs, so Mama may be around.

There are few big crocodiles, if any, left now on Siargao Island, but smaller ones are still found in Numancia (Del Carmen) about 15 km away from where I live. I believe I saw a reasonably large one, early one morning, slide off a rocky ledge in Sohoton Lagoon, and swim under my boat. I used to swim into some spectacular semi-submerged caves there to find Jewel Box Oysters, but now I do so with more care.

The local species is Crocodylus porosus, the infamous Indo-Pacific 'saltwater' crocodile.

 

Certainly, crocodiles are predatory carnivores, and as such are dangerous. Large ones can as easily attack and kill a human as a monkey or deer. But attacks are so unpredictable and scarce that most shore-dwelling people treat them as no more than exceptional occurrences, not to be worried about. Just as most people would feel about lightning strikes or bee stings - see the statistics below.

Fedor Jagor, writing over 100 years ago, says of Bito Lake in Samar:


Geographer on the Kiwai Coast

"The principal employment of our hosts appeared to be fishing, which is so productive that the roughest apparatus is sufficient. There was not a single boat, but only loosely-bound rafts of bamboo, on which the fishers, sinking, as we ourselves did on our raft, half a foot deep, moved about amongst the crocodiles, which I never beheld in such numbers and of so large a size as in this lake. Some swam about on the surface with their backs projecting out of the water. It was striking to see the complete indifference with which even two little girls waded in the water in the face of the great monsters. Fortunately the latter appeared to be satisfied with their ample rations of fish".

The Former Philippines thru Foreign Eyes

Crocodiles will always prefer their usual easy prey, fish and amphibians, when it is abundant When the balance is overturned, often by a combination of well-meaning conservation, and over-fishing, then what experts call CHIs - Crocodile/Human Inter-actions, occur more frequently.

Humans have probably always been greater predators towards crocodiles than vice-versa.

The jaws of crocodilians are powerful; perhaps they have the strongest bite power in the animal kingdom. But this is only exercised in closing, to crush the bones of small animals. It's so weak in opening that they can be held together by hand. This is the secret sleight-of-hand of the derring-do of alligator tamers in Florida, and Dr. Brady Barr of National Geographic TV fame.

Most crocodiles live by rivers or lakes; none in the sea, except in estuaries and lagoons, and only two species (porosus, the Saltwater Crocodile, and niloticus, the Nile Crocodile, regularly take human prey).

"The Nile Crocodile has evolved on a continent where it has had to contend and compete with a far greater variety of competitors, as well as potential prey species, than any other crocodilian in the world. Competitors in the aquatic habitat include predatory fish and sharks, monitor lizards, three other crocodile species, and hippopotamuses. On land, it needs to defend territory, nest sites, and offspring against a range of predators and competitors ranging from small mongooses to elephants, and, of course, humans. Consequently, the Nile Crocodile is one of the most aggressive of all crocodiles. In order to survive in habitats populated by such a diverse fauna, it has become a versatile and opportunistic hunter, and master predator of the aquatic environment."

Much has been made of the 'killer crocodile' legend - much of it by 'Indiana Jones' characters from the 1920s to 1960s

The crocodile hunter, in this case at Rusinga Island, Lake Victoria, in the early '30s, was Dr. Louis Leakey, later to be the finder of the very earliest human remains at Olduvai. But this was the age when colonial policemen wore ill-fitting British army uniforms and a fez, and heroes tried to look like Errol Flynn and smoked cigarettes, casually, after the kill. But was the trophy worth breaking off lunch for? From the picture, it looks like it was only 10ft long.

Thanks to Lee Olsen for sending me this extract from Leakey's book.

Kibol, the 'Siargao Island Killer Crocodile'

Quite a fuss was made about a 'killer' crocodile named 'Kibol' or 'Putol' from Del Carmen, some 15 km from where I live, about 30 years ago. It was reputed to have killed as many as 15 people (the number grew with every new story teller I met).

This crocodile was the source of:

 

"Tiny Siargo (sic) Island, off Mindanao in the Philippines, has reported the deaths of nine villagers in recent years, all possible victims of the same crocodile"

"Tiny" Siargao Island is 4½ times the size of Manhattan.

a third-hand quote attributed to: 

A.C. (Tony) Pooley (Consultant on Crocodile Farming, Conservation, and Education, Scottburgh, South Africa), Tommy C. Hines (Consultant on Alligator and Crocodile Management, Florida, USA), and John Shield (Veterinarian, Cairns, Australia) - ie two farmers and a vet.

 

by Jim Moore, in part of his dedicated diatribe against human shoreline living, 'Predators'.  

In 1978, it became known that a certain large crocodile was menacing people along a 5 mile stretch of mangroves and creeks from Del Carmen east along the coast of Siargao Island.

A postman was attacked in Lobongon, and an old lady, last seen washing her undies in a creek, disappeared. Postmen are a very rare species in Siargao, and seldom seen.

At about that time, Ramon Mitra, an avowed conservationist, democrat, and Senator for Palawan, was running for President of the Philippines (against Marcos - no chance), and also setting up a crocodile farm in Palawan. He organised a team of Japanese 'scientists' to hunt the 'killer' crocodile down.

The 'scientists' used the same trapping method that Fedor Jagor described a hundred years earlier. (Actually, they didn't - they got some local boys who knew what they were doing to catch the beast).

"As the priest assured us, there are crocodiles in the river Basey over thirty feet in length, those in excess of twenty feet being numerous. The obliging father promised me one of at least twenty-four feet, whose skeleton I would gladly have secured; and he sent out some men who are so practised in the capture of these animals that they are dispatched to distant places for the purpose. Their contrivance for capturing them consists of a light raft of bamboo, with a stage, on which, several feet above the water, a dog or a cat is bound. Alongside the animal is placed a strong iron hook, (Mitra's people used a cable loop) which is fastened to the swimming bamboo by means of fibers of abacá. The crocodile, when it has swallowed the bait and the hook at the same time, endeavors in vain to get away, for the pliability of the raft prevents its being torn to pieces, and the peculiar elasticity of the bundle of fibers prevents its being bitten through. The raft serves likewise as a buoy for the captured animal". 

"According to the statements of the hunters, the large crocodiles live far from human habitations, generally selecting the close vegetation in an oozy swamp, in which their bellies, dragging heavily along, leave trails behind them which betray them to the initiated. After a week the priest mentioned that his party had sent in three crocodiles, the largest of which, however, measured only eighteen feet, but that he had not kept one for me, as he hoped to obtain one of thirty feet. His expectation, however, was not fulfilled."

The Former Philippines thru Foreign Eyes

Kibol is the name given by the villagers to be a wak-wak, or ghoul - a 'witch', able to change to become any animal at any time, and a nasty one if he had the urge. He was thought to be a local man with a grudge, and, sure enough, a local man disappeared immediately after Kibol was captured, which proves the legend.

I heard the story from Romy Tan, the mayor of Del Carmen at the time, who organised Kibol's capture, and then looked after him for several months, while the Senator worked out how to ship him across the Philippines to Palawan.  He fed him regularly, and he became positively friendly.

When Kibol arrived in Palawan, he sulked; no-one could entice him to leave the thicket of plants in his compound. As a tourist sight, the 'Killer Crocodile' was a dismal failure, and he was only 16ft long.

Until Romy Tan visited, and Kibol bounded out of seclusion to greet him. They say he even wagged his tail.

It's nice to know it wasn't just me that made Kibol hide when I photographed him in Palawan

And crocodiles are still thought to be bewitched:

"Crocodiles are killing at least two people every day in the Lower Shire Valley in southern Malawi, according to a survey carried out by a professional hunter...

Mr Hassen has been in the crocodile business since 1963 and has recorded killing at least 17,000 crocodiles in Malawi since then.

He said he mainly exports crocodile skins to fashion houses in France.

So any unbiassed report from him must merit consideration.

George Ntafu, the neurosurgeon-turned wildlife minister, answering a question from an MP from the area on what government was doing to control the crocodile problem, said his ministry suspected witchcraft in the prolification of crocodile deaths".

BBC News 5 January 2000

Crocodiles in the open sea ?

In Mr Moore's discourse, Predators',  he makes the common mistake of conflating tales of crocodile

predation, then attributing them to 'saltwater' crocodiles, which he assumes, wrongly, to live mainly in the sea.

Crocodiles can, indeed, swim long distances at sea, but so can elephants. Few people would consider the elephant a real problem at the shoreline. 

Saltwater crocodile eggs are sometimes laid in vegetation mats in rivers and estuaries. It doesn't take a great deal of imagination to envisage such a mat being washed out to sea after a heavy rainfall, and drifting to places like Palau, 900km from land, and the Cocos Islands (over 1000km from Sumatra), where Indo-Pacific crocodiles have become established. 

After all, humans can make the same voyage relatively easily:

Fedor Jagor, in the late 19thC, met some Palauans who had come to the Philippines deliberately - about 900km across the open sea - to collect mother of pearl shells (not pearls; they discarded those) and wrote:

"They had sailed from Uleai (Uliai, 7° 20’ N., 143°57’ E. Gr.) in five boats, each of which had a crew of nine men and carried forty gourds full of water, with coconuts and batata. Every man received one coconut daily, and two batatas, which they baked in the ashes of the coco shells; and they caught some fish on the way, and collected a little rain-water. During the day they directed their course by the sun, and at night by the stars. A storm destroyed the boats. Two of them sank, together with their crews, before the eyes of their companions, and of these, only one–probably the sole individual rescued–two weeks afterwards reached the harbor of Tandag, on the east coast of Mindanao".

He also quotes an earlier report (1696) in which a storm-diverted group af Palauans (35 in all, including women and children, of which six died during their 70-day accidental voyage) arrived in Guiuan, just north-west of Siargao Island.

"When some one from Guivam wished to go on board to them, they were thrown into such a state of terror that all who were in one of the boats sprang overboard, along with their wives and children."

The Former Philippines thru Foreign Eyes

Some may remember that, 300 years later, when met  by the vigilant boats of the gallant Australian Navy north of Darwin, several boatloads of hopeful Indonesian migrants did exactly the same, and several drowned.

But then, for Mr. Moore to go on to imagine that Indo-Pacific crocodiles feel at home, or even predate, in the open sea, might need a little "chemical stimulation". Perhaps that's freely available in the Californian academic world.

- Pelagic fish are, more often than not, invisible from near the surface, except to certain pelagic sea birds, who can detect fish schools, and get to them quickly enough to do something about it. Crocodiles can't fly.

- Crocodiles are semi-aquatic, not fully aquatic. They do not like to stay (but can survive) under water for much longer than half an hour. They, like other cold-blooded reptiles, need to bask in the sun.

- They can lay their eggs only on land, or a close approximation of it, like vegetation mats. Unusually among reptiles, they tend their offspring.

- Crocodiles prefer still, or only slowly-moving waters. Waves of any kind, let alone surf, would, at least,  discomfort them.

- Crocodiles might 'survive but not prosper' in the open sea - they don't need to eat often, but well. Crocodiles in certain otherwise barren East African rivers are thought to eat only once a year, when the wildebeest migration goes by. If a few humans happen to go by at other times, the crocodiles might be persuaded to take a snack.

The saltwater crocodile has acquired a terrible reputation mainly because there are many in Queensland and the Northern Territories of Australia, a continent very recently settled almost exclusively by Europeans, most of whom have heard fables, but seldom met an actual crocodile.

It is hardly in the interests of the Crocodile Dundees, and those in the tourism racket, to underplay any points of interest about a sluggish, shy, ugly reptile that lives most of its life invisibly immersed in water, but is still the only thing around Darwin of any interest at all.

Cazador prehistórico
A great deal is made of the dangers, with warning signs, etc, but, in fact, there are remarkably few crocodile fatalities:


Although some people are very stupid...

Crocodile attacks in the Northern Territory of AustraliMekisic AP, Wardill JR.

Royal Prince Alfred Hospital, Camperdown, NSW.

OBJECTIVE: To examine crocodile attacks in the Northern Territory with particular reference to risk factors, range of injuries, microorganisms isolated from wounds, and surgical management; and to make recommendations for optimal treatment. DESIGN AND SETTING: The case notes of patients treated at the Royal Darwin Hospital within the last decade were reviewed retrospectively. Autopsy and newspaper reports for the same period were also reviewed. RESULTS: There were 16 reported crocodile attacks in Northern Territory waters from June 1981 to June 1991. Four of these were fatal. Most attacks resulted from swimming or wading in shallow water (13/16). Half the victims were known to be affected by alcohol. The majority of attacks occurred in failing light or at night (10/16). 

Human Deaths in Australia Between 1980-1990, Inclusive  
(from Stevens & Paxton, 1992)

Total Deaths

Average/Year

Crocodile Attacks

0.7

Shark Attacks

11 

1

Lightning Strikes

19 

1.7

Bee Stings

20 

1.8

Scuba Diving Accidents

88 

8

Drownings/Submersions

3367 

306

Motor Vehicle Accidents

32772 

2979

Statistics and sources from John Paxton 

Sawa - Snakes 

Amamaton - Python - Python reticulatus

We found this python in a waterfall pool in the forest. The pool had been used for some illegal logging (the background material is chain-saw waste). The snake had been badly beaten, presumably by the loggers, was moribund, and barely moved. If we hadn't been so damned scared of it, we might have noticed the white lesions all over its body. We took it home to try and revive it, but it died on the way. The flesh was already half-rotten, and the skin came off in my hand. Nobody really wanted to eat it, so we buried it in sand, and hope to recover the skeleton when the ants have cleaned it up. It measured 230cm (7'8") long. 

We recovered the bones, but it's like trying to reconstruct the Book of Genesis from a bowl of alphabet soup. Snake bones are very, very disjointed. They are mostly joined together by ligaments, and the skull bones especially so, because they need to be flexible enough to open up and take in very large prey. Pythons have teeth, slanted backwards to pull in prey, but not venomous, and in no other way very sophisticated. They are needle-sharp. I can vouch for that.

Perhaps some herpetologist out there can advise me how these bits can be put back together again.

We have now acquired another two pythons; one is very, very young, only about 18" long, and is sitting happily in the lizard cage , but the other is about 5' long, so has a cage for itself. It disdains abatud, the huge larvae of coconut beetles, has ignored the tiki - geckos I've put in its cage, and is generally behaving like a prima donna. I've pressed Rhon to go out and get some young chicks, but there's no telling what he might come back with.

If he doesn't do something about it soon, I'm going to tell him to stick all the ribs back on the original python skeleton.

The larger one escaped one night, and found its way to my kitchen, where it caught a large rat. We found the snake next morning, comatose under the kitchen sink, with a large lump in its belly, and, I swear, a very satisfied grin on its face.

Sigwawo - Sea Snake - Laticaudia sp

Sea kraits are very highly venomous, but have very small mouths, and are very docile. Unless you trouble to present the fold between your thumb and forefinger, you will find it almost impossible to get them to bite you. This one was brought to me by the local 'crazy woman' , who arrived with it draped around her neck. It was badly wounded, so I kept it for treatment (Amoxycillin powder emptied out of capsules) but I have no idea what to feed it with, so it will have to go back to the sea very soon.

Tangkig - Sea Snake - Sp??

In contrast to the grace and beauty of the Sigwawo, this thing is a perfect slob.

It has the same very small venomous mouth, but lacks the 'tail fin', and has a peculiarly loose and sloppy body. It's about the same size, 40cm long or so, but a bit meatier.

It doesn't seem to live in the open sea like Sigwawo, but in brackish waters. This one came from the foetid tidal swamp just upstream from the local Mabua creek mouth, and area of nipa palms and accumulated junk, washed both ways by the tide and stream.

Lukay-lukay - Grass Snake - Elaphe sp

This is a relative of the common grass snake of Europe, and probably of much of the rest of the world.  It is not poisonous, and eats insects, fish, amphibians, etc.

This one was caught while trying to swallow a toad. Perhaps if we had not deprived it of its lunch, it might not have managed to escape through a tiny gap in its cage.

Not a great feed. And, otherwise, not very interesting. But beautiful, and very graceful.

New Pages as at May 2006

Skull & Bones Club  Oldest Beads Were Sea Shells
Brain Development The Indo-Pacific Shoreline Ecotone
Fats & The Brain 1 - Why DHA matters African Lakes & Rivers