|
All of
these reptiles live, or often come to,
within the shoreline - twenty minutes walk back on the land side or
anywhere you can wade to on the sea side.
All of
them live in my Philippine island, or, if they've been hunted out on
the island itself, very near indeed, on
'mainland' Mindanao.
And all of
them (or their close cousins) live all along the coastline from
South Africa to Australia and China.
Any Early
Human who ambled along that vast ecotone - the biggest in the world
- would have found the same familiar foodstuffs almost every step of
the way (and some better ones the further they went). There was no
reason at all for Homo erectus to 'evolve more intelligence'
to 'deal with new game animals' after he 'went out of
Africa'.
It was
just the same old stuff, procured in the same old ways, and dear old
Homo erectus could carry on as he always had; as indeed
he did, for close on 2 million
years. |
|
Don't go
much further if you feel very sentimental about animals - this
website, remember, is primarily about FOOD.
A man seldom thinks with more
earnestness of anything than he does of his dinner.
Samuel Johnson |
Food dominates the life of the Filipino.
People here just love to eat. They eat at least eight times a day.
These eight official meals are called, in order: breakfast, snacks,
lunch, merienda, pica-pica, pulutan, dinner, and
no-one-saw-me-take-that-cookie-from- the-fridge-so-it-doesn't-count.
The short gaps in between these mealtimes are spent eating Sky
Flakes from the open packet that sits on every
desktop.
SIGNS IN DA
PILIPINS |
|
Pawikan
- Turtles |
|
Turtles
are damned good to eat - and pre-packaged - flip a turtle on its
back over some hot coals and let it simmer - a Cornish Pasty with
some oomph.
Turtles
were certainly carried as pre-packaged fresh meat on sailing ships -
probably for millenia.
Only two
are at all common on Siargao Island - the Green and the Hawksbill,
and both are still eaten. I've seen an elegantly dressed lady
walking down the street with the turtle lunch balanced neatly on her
head. (And one day, I'll have my camera with me). |
 Green turtle laying its eggs in the
Philippines
|
|

|
Turtles are photogenic and very easy to photograph
(they don't usually run away), so they appear on TV (PBS, BBC
and National Geographic) often. They have big, sad eyes, and
are beloved by the same people that think pandas deserve
special treatment. |
|
WWF sponsored by
Canon | |
|

|
Ask those same sad sentimentalists how they'd treat a
cockroach (or even a hamburger), and you'll get a very
different answer.
If you really
want to know what a cockroach feels about the world, go and
see Archy | |
|
During the 18th and 19th
centuries, so many turtles were shipped to Europe (mostly by the
British, who controlled most of the Indian Ocean and much of the
Pacific) that turtles became almost scarce, and 'Mock Turtle Soup'
had to be invented, made from calves' heads.

Geographer on the Kiwai Coast

Geographer on the Kiwai Coast |

Green turtle (Chelonia mydas)

Geographer on the Kiwai Coast
Capturing green
turtle, New Guinea |
|
"U. S. Army Lt. A. W. Greely led an Arctic scientific
expedition that headquartered at Fort Conger. The outpost seems
(sic) quite snug in May 1883, meteorological equipment in
place. The dark and the cold were offset by a trencherman's larder.
One Christmas menu: "Mock-turtle soap (sic), salmon,
fricasseed guillemot, spiced musk-ox tongue, crab-salad, roast beef,
eider ducks, tenderloin of musk-ox, potatoes, asparagus, green corn,
green peas, cocoanut pie, jelly cake, plum pudding with wine sauce,
ice cream, grapes, cherries, pineapples, dates, figs, nuts, candies,
coffee, chocolate! Eggnog, rum and cigars were handed around
later."
© 1993-2003 Microsoft Corporation. All rights
reserved.
I really do think
that if Bill Gates insists on copyrighting things like "Mock-turtle soap (sic)" then he deserves
all the lawsuits he gets.
Now
that's a real Arctic diet - mock turtle, grapes, cocoanut,
pineapple, figs ? They really made American heroes in those
days. |
|
Turtle, green, raw - Nutrition Data |
|

|
Green
Turtles are probably the tastiest; Hawksbills are a little too
skinny.
In
Sandakan, Sabah (Northern Borneo) the Turtle Islands lie just
offshore. The islands belong to the Philippines somehow (one of
those political map games) but turtle eggs
are sold in the Sandakan seafood market. Two kinds - one is white,
like a duck egg, and the other is longer, and pale green. I forgot
to ask which was which, but both were delicious, raw, with a
sprinkle of chopped onion and ginger.
 Green turtle swimming with remora fish on its
back.
|
|
Turtle ID - Know Your
Lunch |
|

|

|
|
Flatback (Natator
depressus)
Tropical Australia and
possibly southern New Guinea
To about
90kg |
Green (Chelonia
midas)
Found in all tropical,
sub-tropical seasUp to 230kg in Atlantic & West Pacific, less in
Indian Ocean & Caribbean |
|
|
|
|
Hawksbill
(Eretmochelys imbricata)
Found in all
oceans (tropical waters)
Up to 80kg,
average 60kg |
Loggerhead
(Caretta caretta)
All oceans,
usually temperate waters, sometimes tropical and
sub-tropical
To 180kg in W
Atlantic, less than 100kg in Mediterranean |
|

|

|
|
Leatherback
(Dermochelys coriacea)
All oceans, sub-Arctic
to tropical
Adult female up to
500kg in Atlantic, less in E Pacific |
Kemps' Ridley
(Lepdochelys kempii)
Gulf of Mexico, eastern
USA, occasionally W. Europe.
Typically
35-50kg |
|

|

|
|
Black (Chelonia
sp)
East Pacific
Ocean
To about 120kg (Average
70kg) |
Olive Ridley
(Lepidochelys olivacea)
Tropical Pacific,
Indian, South Atlantic Oceans
Typically
35-50kg |
|
And for those of you who prefer the little ones crispy-fried,
sunny side up: |
|

www.meer.org |

 |
 |
| Chockful o' Goodness! |
| |
|
Turtle eggs - a
hundred or so, buried fresh in the beach sand - would be a bonus
find for a beachcomber. The turtle's strategy of laying a lot of
eggs, which hatch at the same time, works well against predators
like seabirds and monitor lizards, who can only eat one or two at a
time, and can't take a few more home to
keep.
Their mating and
egg-laying methods and times are also fairly predictable. After
laying, there is a conspicuous and instantly recognisable track left
for any discerning beach comber, and a easily memorable store of
accessible protein.
Turtle eggs taste,
somehow, a bit 'chalkier' than hens' eggs, but they must, like any
other eggs, concentrate all the goodness a real mother can
give.
|
|
Ba'o -
Box Terrapin - Cuora amboinensis |
|

|
This must be a
terrapin, weighing about 500gm, but it looks more like a tortoise
than those flat little ones we get in Europe and North America.
This species is
common all over South East Asia, living in creeks and ponds.
It has no
spectacular or very nasty habits, so is not very
interesting.
But it has kept
the same very successful form for maybe 100 million years. That's
success.
|
|
Slow Prey |
|
Ofer Bar-Yosef has been
excavating the caves of Kebara, Qafzeh, and Hayonim, in Palestine,
for nearly a quarter of a century now. He is best known for showing
that Neanderthals and Homo sapiens almost co-existed in his
caves for over 500 centuries.
Somewhat less known,
though, is his work on what they ate over those years:
"Taken together, the caves yield data covering the
period from 200,000 to 10,000 years ago.....First, they found that
as they dug deeper into the past, slow-moving prey like tortoises
and shellfish constituted a greater proportion of the human diet.
Not until the Upper Paleolithic period (44,000 to 19,000 years ago)
did the consumption of fast-moving prey like hares and birds begin
to increase steadily."
Harvard
Magazine 1999 |
|
Now, take a look at
this picture of the view from Hayonim Cave:
That's a great sand
beach just out there. (You can see the surf from 5 km away). Ideal
for sea turtle hatching. (Not so much now, after the Ashkenazi have taken over, but until 60 years ago,
sure).
That little sea, the
Mediterranean, has been rising and falling for a million years or a
lot more. More than probably, it once lapped the very foot of Mt.
Carmel, just below these caves. Which might
have been where the shellfish came from.
It takes a closed mind to propose that early
humans, 2000 centuries ago, just lived in caves and caught tortoises
(8" long) but hadn't the wit to go just over
there and find (and eat on the spot) sea turtles (about 4-6ft
long). |
|
A 'simple graphic' accompanied the article. Perhaps the illustration of a Galapagos tortoise
instead of a Palestinian one was just a
slip.
It purportedly
showed a long,
almost logarithmic 'slow grade' from 250,000ya to the last
tortoise population crash within the very last 10th of that
time
Between about 250mya and 30mya, there are just 4 sampling
points, at ~250mya, ~160mya, ~90mya, then nothing until ~20mya. The
'consumption of slow prey' shows a slow decline, from ~95% 250mya to
about 90% 100mya. That's a pretty slow attrition rate for a tortoise
species with a long gestation period and infrequent births. You
might think that Homo sapiens could have seen his packed
lunches ambling slowly across the landscape, and cleaned them all up in very short order.
|
|
That
didn't happen - according to this graphic, humans only wiped out
about a third of the tortoise population over the next 75,000 years.
Then, ~ 30000BC, the tortoise consumption rose, by about 20%, fell
again by 15000BC, rose again and then crashed from ~7000BC. (By
7000BC, there was a human population boom brought on by
agriculture). |

|
|
The Atlantic slave trade began as a trickle in the
1440s and grew slowly through the 17th century. By 1700,
25,000 slaves, on average, were crossing the Atlantic every
year. After 1700 the trade grew much more rapidly to a peak in
the 1780s, when an average year saw 80,000 African slaves
arrive on American shores. Then the trade fell off more slowly
and after 1850 quickly declined.
A 'simple graphic' could show all kinds of possible
correlations and deductions, depending on the
agenda of the draughtsman: exhaustion of African slave
resources, slave owners getting nicer, change from plantation
agriculture to industry, and any of them could easily ignore
the abolition of slave importation in Britain and the US in
the early 1800s.
So don't always put too much trust in
'simple
graphics'. |
The
archaeologists were not sampling the actual tortoise population -
they were sampling the remains of what they thought had been
eaten by humans.
The
caves they were digging, covering a 'period from 200,000 to 10,000
years ago', might, during all that vast time, have been used by
other animals.
Hyaenas were frequent in Palestine until the 20th century,
and eagles (and tortoises) still are.
An
eagle who mistook a bald pate for a rock dropped a fatal tortoise on
the head of the Greek dramatist Aeschylus, who had already written about three times as many
classical plays as Shakespeare.
Eagles, hyaenas, or
even leopards might just as easily have dumped those
bones.
And who on earth would want to live in a
cold, damp, dripping cave? In the dry, hot summer months, a cave
might be just the place for a family 'hunting trip', ie holiday.
In Northern Europe, when 300ft high glaciers were just up at the head of
the valley, a cave might have been a bit warmer. But the idea that
these 'natural shelters' were lived in continuously or for long
periods gives perhaps just
as unrealistic a picture of 'Stone Age life' as the
Flintstones.
|
|
Lizards |
|
Bibang - Water Monitor -
Varanus salvator marmoreus |
|

|

|
|
Bibangs taste
surprisingly good, like native chicken; a bit tough but flavourful.
This is a young one; older ones are less colourful. It's quite
small at 1.40m, weighing only 2.1kg, but would still make a
substantial family lunch.
The largest water
monitor I have ever seen was crossing a road, blocking traffic in
Sri Lanka. It spanned nearly two (narrow) traffic lanes, but, under
the circumstances, I
didn't measure it accurately. |
|

|

|
|
The water monitor
is not a very lovable animal. It is normally a carnivore, eating
frogs, fish, and so on, and often carrion. Its mouth opens wider
than its head, so it can swallow much larger prey. |
|

|
Water monitors are quite intelligent, and very good
climbers. Mine was tethered to a coconut tree, and learned how
walk backwards to unwind the rope from the tree trunk. He also
realised that the tree became narrower above its base,
loosening the rope loop, and climbed to the very
top.
He became thoroughly tangled in the fronds and
coconuts, and could neither go further up, or come down. He
might have worked it out eventually, but I really wanted him
back.
I had to engage Uyong the Mad Diver (who once dived
70 metres with just a compressed air hose and a large stone,
to retrieve a tangled shell net for me) to go up and get him.
Had I been able to climb, barefoot, up a coco trunk
as quickly as he did, I still wouldn't have gone. The thought
of disentangling an angry 5 ft lizard with a fearsome bite was
way beyond what I would consider as my duty.
|
|
Practical
Experience |
|
Just this afternoon, (17/2/06) as I
was writing this, one of my
monitor lizards died, suddenly. I'd
ignorantly fed it a fat freshwater
eel, and it choked to death (An eel's a bit more than a
quick gulp).
I was suddenly faced with the need
to get its skeleton, skull, and skin intact, so I proceeded to
butcher, then and
there.
Skinning an animal you've just
killed, I'm told by 'real'
hunters, is a visceral, emotional experience,
reaching back to our supposed 'meat-hunting' forefathers in the
Palaeolithic.
It's not at all like that when the
damn thing has just died and you have to take it
apart.
I soon appreciated that a small
sharp flint flake or piece of broken shell
would have served me a lot better than the array of
Stanley, Escoffier, and other specialist modern knives I tried
to use.
They were too big, too sharp, and
altogether too clumsy to skin the animal properly. I really
needed a sharp rock or a clam shell
(the choice of the local pig skinners) to hold between my
thumb and two first
fingers.
I was quite chuffed to see that
Bong, who I called in to finish the job off when I got stuck
with the legs, didn't do a lot better. |

|
|

|
|
I now have somewhat more respect for
the stone tool expertise of Palaeolithic terrestrial hunters,
but I still don't believe that the obsessive
and detailed study of stone tools (bifacials, secondary retouching, and all that)
will teach us much about the intellectual progress of
Early Humans. But I do understand the need for
academics to make the very best of what little they
have.
It did, after all, take more than a million years to progress from
the 'General Purpose Biface' to something a bit better.
Somewhere between
500,000 years ago, and the other afternoon, humans learned
they needed something a bit better, and the genius of Messrs
Stanley and Escoffier came to the fore. It's gratifying,
though, to know that, if you just had a hunk of 'General
Purpose Biface' around to knock another useful flake off,
you'd have been better off. |
|
In the eight
years I've spent in this island town and eaten well, of
locally caught sea foods, this was the
first opportunity I've had to skin
a terrestrial animal, apart from a
chicken. A fish is easy; you snick! in a certain place, then
peel off the skin. Shellfish don't need more than a bash and a
scoop.
Small wonder
that Asian Homo erectus didn't seem to
bother much to develop more
sophisticated rock tools than crude
choppers. There, virtually no one used stone,
or anything other than bamboo, bone, and shell until malleable
bronze and iron came
along. | |
|
Water monitors are
found throughout the Old World Tropics, from Africa
to Australia (goannas) and would have been very familiar to
any Early Humans near lakes, rivers, and the seashore.
The Komodo Dragon
(Varanus komodoensis) is a giant version of a water monitor,
living on a couple of small Indonesian islands. Formerly many
such islands had their own giant species of water monitors.
For more on the
Asian Monitor see: R:e:p:t:i:l:i:a
Unique and
threatened reptiles in the Philippines include the fruit-eating
Gray's monitor (Varanus olivaceus), and a newly discovered
monitor lizard, Varanus mabitang, from Panay, only the second
monitor species known in the world to specialize on a fruit
diet.
Biodiversity Hotspots - The Philippines - Unique and Threated
Biodiversity
|
|
Ibid -
Philippines Sailfin Water Dragon - Hydrosaurus
pustulatus |
|

|

|
|

|

|
|
This one was a bit of a
mystery. She came from the river bank just
up at Tawin-Tawin, (see GL
Map)
and she runs very, very fast. They are reputed to be
able to run across water.
Earlier information I
found on the internet mostly showed males of the species, with much
larger 'fins' on the tail, and an altogether uglier visage. Mine, I
think, must be a female. |
|
I'm not at all
sure what she eats, but we'll try her on fish, meat, fruit, and anything at all
until she has a good snack. I did hope she would like cockroaches, rats and mice, so I
kept her in the kitchen for a couple of
nights. All she did was change colour to a
dull, all-over brown, and start to slough her old skin. She's 95cm
long overall, and weighs just 700gm, but 2/3 of that length is skinny tail.
Not a 3 star
roast.
(Update: Twice
this week, the Ibid has caught and eaten a fish. There's a
local freshwater goby, Bunog, that the local kids catch by
hand and bring to me by the dozen (I also have two herons to feed).
The fish has a habit of resting half in and half out of the water,
so it's ideal food for the Ibid.)
|
|
Tambuka'ka - Flying
Lizard - Draco (volans?) |
|
These quite small lizards really do fly - or at
least, glide, for very long distances. I've seen one coast,
without losing height, for at least 25 metres between coconut
tree trunks.
They also seem to be able to control their flight
very well, always landing upright, with a kind of upward swoop
at the very last moment.
They're well-camouflaged, and are only really
noticeable when you do catch one, out of the corner of your
eye, actually in flight, or landing.
Of course, they won't fly to order, or whenever my
camera's been ready, so I've got no photographs showing them
actually in flight.
They also use their brightly coloured 'wings', and
the webbed gular flap beneath their throats as threat signals.
So I've had to make them a wee bit upset to be able to show
them off.
Their wings are actually expanded
ribs.
They eat insects, and are far too small and bony to
make a decent meal for a human.
Flying lizards are common in South East Asia,
but this particular species is different to the common
Draco volans, and may be restricted to just this part
of the Philippines.
|

|
|

|
|
Tiki - Common House
Gecko - Gekko gekko |
|
Geckos are very much a component of every South
East Asian household, and probably of most parts of the
tropical world.
I like them, because I keep hoping, vainly, they
will rid my house of mosquitoes, at least.
Regrettably, they don't seem to be able to tackle
cockroaches, and show no great taste for ants, both of which
are also constant denizens of my household.
They are also somewhat stupid, and rush around the
ceiling, either threatening and chattering at other geckos who
encroach on their territory, or trying, in vain, to catch
moths and other conspicuous insects which are far too big for
them.
Their amazing ability to stick to ceilings is
due to their foot pads, which have adapted scales on each toe,
with quite wonderful adherance powers. Their bellies and tails
also have rudimentary flaps that help suction.
But not that wonderful; every so often, one will
suddenly drop from the ceiling, with a damp plop!, usually
onto you, your evening drink, or your computer keyboard. Then
they show a moment's bewilderment, and skitter off.
|

|
|

|
|
Tabili - Emerald
Green Skink - Lamproletis smaragdinus |
|
These are
very beautiful creatures, common on tree trunks.
They can
grow to about 20cm (8"), exluding the tail, and would make
tasty mouthful or two.
|
They live on an undistinguished diet of
insects and seeds.
(I thought, while I wondered where my geckos
went) |
|

|
| Another skink has
turned up - I don't know what soecies. Watch this
space. |
 |
|
Buwaja - Crocodile -
Crocodylus
porosus | |
|

|
Crocodile
eggs, 20 to 90 in number and about the size of goose eggs, are
buried in sand, mud, or vegetable debris, where they are left
to hatch by the heat of the sun or of vegetable decomposition.
The temperature of the incubation determines the sex of the
emerging crocodiles. Females come from the lower, cooler
eggs.
Like any
other eggs, they are highly nutritious, and can easily be
found by a knowledgeable beachcomber on river and estuary
banks, in backshore lagoons, or behind mangrove swamps, but
very seldom on the open shore. |
|
They must be
harvested quickly, though; water monitors are estimated to eat
approximately half of all crocodile eggs laid.
They must
also be harvested with care; crocodiles are unique among
reptiles in caring for, and protecting their eggs, so Mama may
be around. | |
|
|
There are
few big crocodiles, if any, left now on Siargao Island, but
smaller ones are still found in Numancia (Del Carmen) about 15
km away from where I live. I believe I saw a reasonably large
one, early one morning, slide off a rocky ledge in Sohoton
Lagoon, and swim under my boat. I used to swim into some
spectacular semi-submerged caves there to find Jewel Box
Oysters, but now I do so with more care.
The local
species is Crocodylus porosus, the infamous
Indo-Pacific 'saltwater' crocodile.
|
|
Certainly,
crocodiles are predatory carnivores, and as such are
dangerous. Large ones can as easily attack and kill a human as
a monkey or deer. But attacks are so unpredictable and scarce
that most shore-dwelling people treat them as no more than
exceptional occurrences, not to be worried about. Just as most
people would feel about lightning strikes or bee stings - see
the statistics below. |
|
Fedor Jagor,
writing over 100 years ago, says of Bito Lake in
Samar: |
 Geographer on the Kiwai Coast
|
|
"The principal employment of our hosts
appeared to be fishing, which is so productive that the
roughest apparatus is sufficient. There was not a single boat,
but only loosely-bound rafts of bamboo, on which the fishers,
sinking, as we ourselves did on our raft, half a foot deep,
moved about amongst the crocodiles, which I never beheld in
such numbers and of so large a size as in this lake. Some swam
about on the surface with their backs projecting out of the
water. It was striking to see the complete indifference with
which even two little girls waded in the water in the face of
the great monsters. Fortunately the latter appeared to be
satisfied with their ample rations of fish".
The Former Philippines thru Foreign
Eyes
Crocodiles will always prefer their usual easy
prey, fish and amphibians, when it is abundant When the
balance is overturned, often by a combination of well-meaning
conservation, and over-fishing, then what experts call CHIs -
Crocodile/Human Inter-actions, occur more frequently.
|
|
Humans have probably always been greater predators
towards crocodiles than
vice-versa. |
|
The jaws of
crocodilians are powerful; perhaps they have
the strongest bite power in the animal kingdom. But this is
only exercised in closing, to
crush the bones of small animals. It's so
weak in opening that they can be held together by hand.
This is the secret sleight-of-hand of the derring-do of
alligator tamers in Florida, and Dr. Brady Barr of National
Geographic TV fame.
Most
crocodiles live by rivers or lakes; none in the sea, except in
estuaries and lagoons, and only two species (porosus,
the Saltwater Crocodile, and niloticus, the Nile
Crocodile, regularly take human prey).
"The Nile Crocodile has
evolved on a continent where it has had to contend and compete
with a far greater variety of competitors, as well as
potential prey species, than any other crocodilian in the
world. Competitors in the aquatic habitat include predatory
fish and sharks, monitor lizards, three other crocodile
species, and hippopotamuses. On land, it needs to defend
territory, nest sites, and offspring against a range of
predators and competitors ranging from small mongooses to
elephants, and, of course, humans. Consequently, the Nile
Crocodile is one of the most aggressive of all crocodiles. In
order to survive in habitats populated by such a diverse
fauna, it has become a versatile and opportunistic hunter, and
master predator of the aquatic environment." |
|
Much has
been made of the 'killer crocodile' legend - much of it by
'Indiana Jones' characters from the 1920s to
1960s |
|

|
|

|

|
|
The
crocodile hunter, in this case at Rusinga Island, Lake
Victoria, in the early '30s, was Dr. Louis Leakey, later to be
the finder of the very earliest human remains at Olduvai. But
this was the age when colonial policemen wore ill-fitting
British army uniforms and a fez, and heroes tried to look like
Errol Flynn and smoked cigarettes, casually, after the kill.
But was the trophy worth breaking off lunch for? From the
picture, it looks like it was only 10ft long.
Thanks to Lee Olsen for sending me this
extract from Leakey's
book. | |
|
Kibol,
the 'Siargao Island Killer Crocodile' |
|
Quite a fuss
was made about a 'killer' crocodile named 'Kibol' or 'Putol'
from Del Carmen, some 15 km from where
I live, about 30 years ago. It was reputed to have killed as
many as 15 people (the number grew with every new story
teller I met). |
|
This
crocodile was the source of:
|
"Tiny Siargo (sic) Island, off Mindanao in
the Philippines, has reported the deaths of nine
villagers in recent years, all possible victims of the
same crocodile" |
|
"Tiny" Siargao Island is 4½ times the size of
Manhattan. |
a third-hand quote attributed
to:
A.C. (Tony) Pooley (Consultant on
Crocodile Farming, Conservation, and Education, Scottburgh,
South Africa), Tommy C. Hines (Consultant on Alligator and
Crocodile Management, Florida, USA), and John Shield
(Veterinarian, Cairns, Australia) - ie two farmers and a
vet.
by Jim
Moore, in part of his dedicated
diatribe against human shoreline living,
'Predators'. |
|
In 1978, it
became known that a certain large crocodile was menacing
people along a 5 mile stretch of mangroves and creeks from Del
Carmen east along the coast of Siargao Island.
A postman
was attacked in Lobongon, and an old lady, last seen washing
her undies in a creek, disappeared. Postmen are a very
rare species in Siargao, and seldom seen.
At about
that time, Ramon Mitra, an avowed conservationist, democrat,
and Senator for Palawan, was running for President of the
Philippines (against Marcos - no chance), and also setting up
a crocodile farm in Palawan. He organised a team of Japanese
'scientists' to hunt the 'killer' crocodile down.
|
The
'scientists' used the same trapping method that Fedor
Jagor described a hundred years earlier. (Actually, they
didn't - they got some local boys who knew what they
were doing to catch the beast). |
|
"As the priest assured us, there are
crocodiles in the river Basey over thirty feet in
length, those in excess of twenty feet being numerous.
The obliging father promised me one of at least
twenty-four feet, whose skeleton I would gladly have
secured; and he sent out some men who are so practised
in the capture of these animals that they are dispatched
to distant places for the purpose. Their contrivance for
capturing them consists of a light raft of bamboo, with
a stage, on which, several feet above the water, a dog
or a cat is bound. Alongside the animal is placed a
strong iron hook, (Mitra's people used a cable
loop) which is fastened to the
swimming bamboo by means of fibers of abacá. The
crocodile, when it has swallowed the bait and the hook
at the same time, endeavors in vain to get away, for the
pliability of the raft prevents its being torn to
pieces, and the peculiar elasticity of the bundle of
fibers prevents its being bitten through. The raft
serves likewise as a buoy for the captured
animal". |

|
|
"According to the statements of the
hunters, the large crocodiles live far from human
habitations, generally selecting the close
vegetation in an oozy swamp, in which their bellies,
dragging heavily along, leave trails behind them which
betray them to the initiated. After a week the priest
mentioned that his party had sent in three crocodiles,
the largest of which, however, measured only eighteen
feet, but that he had not kept one for me, as he hoped
to obtain one of thirty feet. His expectation, however,
was not fulfilled."
The Former Philippines thru Foreign
Eyes |
| Kibol is the name given by the villagers to be a
wak-wak, or ghoul - a 'witch',
able to change to become any animal at any time,
and a nasty one if he had the
urge. He was thought to be a local
man with a grudge, and, sure enough, a local man
disappeared immediately after Kibol was captured, which
proves the legend.
I
heard the story from Romy Tan, the mayor of Del Carmen
at the time, who organised Kibol's capture, and then
looked after him for several
months, while the Senator worked out how to ship him across the Philippines to
Palawan. He fed him
regularly, and he became
positively friendly.
When
Kibol arrived in Palawan, he sulked; no-one could entice
him to leave the thicket of plants in his compound. As a
tourist sight, the 'Killer
Crocodile' was a dismal failure,
and he was only 16ft long.
Until
Romy Tan visited, and Kibol bounded out of seclusion to
greet him. They say he even wagged his tail. |
 |
| It's nice to know it
wasn't just me that made Kibol hide when I photographed
him in Palawan |
|
And
crocodiles are still thought to be
bewitched: |
|
"Crocodiles are killing at least two
people every day in the Lower Shire Valley in southern
Malawi, according to a survey carried out by a
professional hunter...
Mr Hassen has been in the crocodile
business since 1963 and has recorded killing at least
17,000 crocodiles in Malawi since then.
He said he mainly exports crocodile
skins to fashion houses in France.
So any unbiassed report from him must
merit consideration.
George Ntafu, the neurosurgeon-turned
wildlife minister, answering a question from an MP from
the area on what government was doing to control the
crocodile problem, said his ministry suspected
witchcraft in the prolification of crocodile
deaths".
BBC News 5 January
2000 | |
|
Crocodiles in the open sea
? |
|
In Mr
Moore's discourse, Predators',
he makes the common
mistake of conflating tales of crocodile
predation, then attributing them to 'saltwater'
crocodiles, which he assumes, wrongly, to live mainly in the sea. |
|
Crocodiles
can, indeed, swim long distances at sea, but so can elephants.
Few people would consider the elephant a real problem at the
shoreline.
Saltwater
crocodile eggs are sometimes laid in
vegetation mats in rivers and estuaries. It doesn't take a
great deal of imagination to envisage such a mat being washed
out to sea after a heavy rainfall, and drifting to places like
Palau, 900km from land, and the Cocos Islands (over 1000km
from Sumatra), where Indo-Pacific crocodiles have become
established.
After all,
humans can make the same voyage relatively easily:
Fedor Jagor,
in the late 19thC, met some Palauans who had come to the
Philippines deliberately - about 900km across the open sea -
to collect mother of pearl shells (not pearls; they discarded
those) and wrote:
"They had sailed from Uleai (Uliai, 7° 20’ N.,
143°57’ E. Gr.) in five boats, each of which had a crew of
nine men and carried forty gourds full of water, with coconuts
and batata. Every man received one coconut daily, and
two batatas, which they baked in the ashes of the coco
shells; and they caught some fish on the way, and collected a
little rain-water. During the day they directed their course
by the sun, and at night by the stars. A storm destroyed the
boats. Two of them sank, together with their crews, before the
eyes of their companions, and of these, only one–probably the
sole individual rescued–two weeks afterwards reached the
harbor of Tandag, on the east coast of
Mindanao".
He
also quotes an earlier report (1696) in which a storm-diverted
group af Palauans (35 in all, including women and children, of
which six died during their 70-day accidental voyage) arrived
in Guiuan, just north-west of Siargao
Island.
"When some one from Guivam wished to go on board
to them, they were thrown into such a state of terror that all
who were in one of the boats sprang overboard, along with
their wives and children."
The Former Philippines thru Foreign
Eyes
Some may remember that, 300 years later, when met
by the vigilant boats of the gallant
Australian Navy north of Darwin, several boatloads of hopeful
Indonesian migrants did exactly the same, and
several drowned. |
|
But then,
for Mr. Moore to go on to imagine that Indo-Pacific crocodiles
feel at home, or even predate, in the open sea, might need a
little "chemical stimulation". Perhaps that's
freely available in the Californian academic
world.
- Pelagic
fish are, more often than not, invisible from near the surface, except to certain pelagic
sea birds, who can detect fish
schools, and get to them quickly enough to do something
about it. Crocodiles can't fly.
- Crocodiles
are semi-aquatic, not fully aquatic. They do not like to stay
(but can survive) under water for much longer than half an
hour. They, like other cold-blooded reptiles, need to bask in
the sun.
- They can lay their eggs only on
land, or a close approximation of it, like
vegetation mats. Unusually among
reptiles, they tend their offspring.
- Crocodiles
prefer still, or only slowly-moving waters. Waves of any kind,
let alone surf, would, at least, discomfort
them.
- Crocodiles
might 'survive but not prosper' in the open sea - they don't
need to eat often, but well. Crocodiles in certain otherwise
barren East African rivers are thought to eat only once a
year, when the wildebeest migration goes by. If a few humans
happen to go by at other times, the crocodiles might be
persuaded to take a snack. | |
|
The
saltwater crocodile has acquired a terrible reputation mainly
because there are many in Queensland and the Northern
Territories of Australia, a continent very recently settled
almost exclusively by Europeans, most of whom have heard
fables, but seldom met an actual crocodile.
It is hardly
in the interests of the Crocodile Dundees, and those in the
tourism racket, to underplay any points of interest about a
sluggish, shy, ugly reptile that lives most of its life
invisibly immersed in water, but is still the only thing
around Darwin of any interest at all. |
|

|
 |
| A great deal is made of
the dangers, with warning signs, etc, but, in fact, there are
remarkably few crocodile fatalities: |
|
 Although some people are very
stupid...
|
|
Crocodile attacks in the Northern Territory
of AustraliMekisic AP, Wardill JR.
Royal Prince Alfred Hospital,
Camperdown, NSW.
OBJECTIVE: To examine crocodile attacks in the Northern
Territory with particular reference to risk factors, range of
injuries, microorganisms isolated from wounds, and surgical
management; and to make recommendations for optimal treatment.
DESIGN AND SETTING: The case notes of patients treated at the
Royal Darwin Hospital within the last decade were reviewed
retrospectively. Autopsy and newspaper reports for the same
period were also reviewed. RESULTS: There were 16 reported
crocodile attacks in Northern Territory waters from June 1981
to June 1991. Four of these were fatal. Most attacks resulted
from swimming or wading in shallow water (13/16). Half the
victims were known to be affected by alcohol. The majority of
attacks occurred in failing light or at night (10/16).
|
|
Human Deaths in Australia Between
1980-1990, Inclusive (from Stevens & Paxton,
1992) |
Total Deaths |
Average/Year |
|
Crocodile Attacks |
8 |
0.7 |
|
Shark Attacks |
11 |
1 |
|
Lightning Strikes |
19 |
1.7 |
|
Bee Stings |
20 |
1.8 |
|
Scuba Diving
Accidents |
88 |
8 |
|
Drownings/Submersions |
3367 |
306 |
|
Motor Vehicle
Accidents |
32772 |
2979 |
|
Statistics and sources from John
Paxton
| | |
|
Sawa -
Snakes |
|
Amamaton - Python - Python
reticulatus |
|

|
|
We found this
python in a waterfall pool in the forest. The pool had been used for
some illegal logging (the background material is chain-saw waste).
The snake had been badly beaten, presumably by the loggers, was
moribund, and barely moved. If we hadn't been so damned scared of
it, we might have noticed the white lesions all over its body. We
took it home to try and revive it, but it died on the way. The flesh
was already half-rotten, and the skin came off in my hand. Nobody
really wanted to eat it, so we buried it in sand, and hope to
recover the skeleton when the ants have cleaned it up. It measured
230cm (7'8") long. |
|

|
We recovered
the bones, but it's like trying to reconstruct the Book of
Genesis from a bowl of alphabet soup. Snake bones are very,
very disjointed. They are mostly joined together by ligaments,
and the skull bones especially so, because they need to be
flexible enough to open up and take in very large prey.
Pythons have teeth, slanted backwards to pull in prey, but not
venomous, and in no other way very sophisticated. They are needle-sharp. I can vouch for
that.
Perhaps some
herpetologist out there can advise me how these bits can be
put back together again. |
|
We have now
acquired another two pythons; one is very, very young, only
about 18" long, and is sitting happily in the lizard cage ,
but the other is about 5' long, so has a cage for itself. It
disdains abatud, the huge
larvae of coconut beetles, has ignored the tiki - geckos I've put in its cage,
and is generally behaving like a prima donna. I've pressed
Rhon to go out and get some young chicks, but there's no
telling what he might come back with.
If he
doesn't do something about it soon, I'm going to tell him to
stick all the ribs back on the original python
skeleton. |
|
The larger one escaped one night, and found its
way to my kitchen, where it caught a large rat. We found the
snake next morning, comatose under the kitchen sink, with a
large lump in its belly, and, I swear, a very satisfied grin
on its face. | |
|
Sigwawo - Sea Snake -
Laticaudia sp |
|

|
|
Sea kraits are
very highly venomous, but have very small mouths, and are very
docile. Unless you trouble to present the fold between your thumb
and forefinger, you will find it almost impossible to get them to
bite you. This one was brought to me by the local 'crazy woman' ,
who arrived with it draped around her neck. It was
badly wounded, so I kept it for treatment (Amoxycillin powder
emptied out of capsules) but I have no idea what to feed it with, so
it will have to go back to the sea very soon.
|
|
Tangkig - Sea Snake -
Sp?? |
|
In contrast to the grace and beauty of the
Sigwawo, this thing is a perfect slob.
It has the same very small venomous mouth, but lacks the
'tail fin', and has a peculiarly loose and sloppy body. It's about
the same size, 40cm long or so, but a bit meatier.
It doesn't seem to live in the open sea like Sigwawo,
but in brackish waters. This one came from the foetid tidal swamp
just upstream from the local Mabua creek mouth, and area of nipa
palms and accumulated junk, washed both ways by the tide and stream.
|

|
|
Lukay-lukay - Grass Snake -
Elaphe sp |
|
|
This is a relative
of the common grass snake of Europe, and probably of much of the
rest of the world. It is not poisonous, and eats insects,
fish, amphibians, etc.
This one was
caught while trying to swallow a toad. Perhaps if we had not
deprived it of its lunch, it might not have managed to escape
through a tiny gap in its cage.
Not a great feed.
And, otherwise, not very interesting. But
beautiful, and very graceful.

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