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This is not the half of it - there are
probably three times as many food items available on the reef every
two weeks of every lunar month throughout the year, when the low
tide is strong, around about mid-day, regular as clockwork, and more
food is exposed. |
|
Bivalves - Clams &
Oysters |
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Tipay-Tipay -
Saccostrea cucullata |
|

These are really only very small true
oysters, not anything like large enough to be featured in a first
class restaurant menu at £10 per half dozen, but tasty just the same
- and free for the picking. |
|
Popokon Chama
iostoma
 This from a different family of rock oysters is usually
attached to a rock, but can also get itself coated with stone, so it
resembles a tough little pebble. They are not true oysters, but they
do taste better than mere Tipay-Tipay.
|
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Lambajang Clam
- Ctena bella
  These are not only good to eat, but if you grind off the
outer rind, you get a wonderful sunset pink/yellow shell. Add a few
bits to a pair and you get a coin purse. I sell them to natives in
Majorca. |
|
Ganga Spider Conch - Lambis
lambis |
 |
 |
| This is probably the defining food shell on the island.
Everybody eats them; they're found on the reef, on sand in
shallow water, and in the seagrass. |
You crack the shell on the back, like an egg, and pull the
meat out 'from behind'. They are tasty, and as full of good
things as any other sea food, if not more so. But the shell is
heavy, so most people 'harvest' the meat on the reef or beach.
If any future archaeologist tried to find the diet of the islanders,
he might find just this - the only one that wasn't just tossed into
the sea, from a beach-side ganga
feast. |
|
Bangkoyon Abalone - Haliotis
diversicolor
These
are a lot smaller than the huge Californian, South African or New
Zealand (Paua) shells that Chinese people worldwide pay fortunes
for, but they are still delicious. With only a bit of imagination,
you could see Ms Homo erectus knocking one of these things off a
rock with a multi-purpose Acheulian handaxe, and enjoying a
pre-prandial seafood cocktail.
|
|
Samong Top Shell -
Tectus fenestratus
  Small species of Trochus, like
these, provide only a tiny snack - the larger species have been
hunted relentlessly for centuries. Your grandfather's dress shirt
probably had 'pearl' buttons made from Trochus niloticus,
and, to this day, Indonesian fishermen 'invade' Australian waters -
as they've done for at least 500 years - to find the commercial
Trochus shells. |
|
Dugingey Vase Shell -
Vasus turbinellus

Tasty, but a bit picky - you have to
pick out the body, then get rid of the horny operculum, and after
all that, there is not a lot left.
|
|
Pajong
(Umbrellas) Limpets - Patelloida
saccharina
 Well, these are no delicacy but they
are very, very available - on every rock-top at any low tide. They
are very tough customers, but no less nutritious than any other
shellfish. They're worldwide, so you could try one out in your own
country almost anytime; but make sure your pick is far away from a
sewage outfall or a major industrially-polluted river - these things
browse on the latest arrivals on a seaside rock surface, and some of
those things might have come from your own bathroom or kitchen sink
( or even worse, your neighbour's or the factory down the road).
|
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Hilla-Hilla Nudibranchs - Phyllidia
spp.
Shell-less Limpets? These things move about on rocks
(remarkably fast for a snail - I suppose they have to at times, not
having a shell to protect them from the sun). They are tough and
rubbery, and have to be parboiled before cooling to make a
kinilaw (raw seafood salad, in vinegar and spices) -
see Kinilaw - The Art of Natural
Food
|
|
Chiton Mopalia
sp?
This isn't really a food item, but I included it here because
it is a perfect example of convergent evolution. Chitons are among
the most primitive molluscs, and have co-existed with echinoderms
(sea urchins) for about 350 million years. Even after all that time,
for a primitive snail to grow spines almost exactly like a sea
urchin's is a fact somewhat to be wondered at.
|
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Stomatella
sp  This
isn't an important food item either, but it just cried out to be
included, as a small animal that has evolved over millions of years
to become a mobile poached egg.
|
|
Balaw Sea Urchins -
Echinometra sp
 Nearest to the kind of
'oursins' you get in Parisian restaurants, with short, thick
spines - I have to confess that the coldwater versions do taste
better (but possibly because they are a lot more expensive).
|
|
Saliwake Sea Urchins - Salmasis
bicolor
Really
not to my taste; possibly because I often buy (for 80¢ a glass) the
male and the female bits mixed together. They make an impossibly
creamy sauce-like mixture, with too much of everything. The five
orange rays are the eggs or sperm.
|
|
Bilisong Pencil Urchin Heterocentrus
spp
  Also a great eat, and
spectacular when they come out of their little clefts in the reef in
the early evening, and wave their six-inch spines around like a mob
of orchestra conductors. You could almost swear they know music -
maybe not Bach, but Elvis,
certainly. |
|
Tajum - Sea
Urchin (Nasty, Black, Long-spined) - Diadema
setosum 
|
Urchin
Spines - These things are so common (especially on
storm-damaged reefs) that one forgets about them - unless you step
on them and get a spine in your flesh. If you do, the very best
answer is to piss on the affliction
immediately, even if you feel a fool standing out on a reef,
holding one leg and your whatsit, and trying to hit the spot. It's
easier for women, which is why they were probably given the job (and
still have, now) of gathering these things. |
|
Now, this is it. They have very large,
solid, tasty ovaries, full of good things like iodine and a few
omega fatty acids as well. They are delicious. If you've
ever tried soda nayyeh (raw fresh lambs' liver) in Lebanon,
you'll understand. This tastes just about the same, but with the
whole world's sea origins in it.
|
|
Batunan Sea
Cucumber - Holothuria sp
Found under every other rock in
shallow water - they're also very good to eat - flavour very
'marine' and texture like a fresh rubber band, crunchy. Worth
trying. Once. |
Bayat Pa-anandayaga & Mat-hin Sea Cucumber - 'Lady's
Thighs' and 'Many Eyes'
 Both of these can be
found on the reef in GL, and are highly prized for kinilaw (raw fish
salad) |
|
Sea Cucumbers are hugely popular in China, and
before you wrinkle your nose in disgust, please remember there are
about 1.5 billion more of them than us. There are probably more than
20 times more Chinese people than you who think these are great
delicacies.
To you (and me) these things may look like turds
on a table. But the market stall owner who carefully laid out
each of these small sun-dried offerings, was expecting grand
rewards. The names are from top L: Lawayan,
Cortido, Hanginan, Kati, Bulibuli, Labuyo, Pajula, and
Hanginan again.
|
|
Bayat Uwak Sea
Cucumber - Thelenota ananas

This is the nasty black common sea
cucumber that looks like a large dog has just visited that
particular spot. It is just about edible, but very far down the
line, as sea cucumbers go - just too common to be worthwhile, and
not very tasty at all. When you pick them up, they squirt out a
stream of viscous white 'gum', that dries and shrinks in the
sunlight, encasing you in a sort of tourniquet.
But even this can be used - fishermen
wrap their feet in it as protection when walking on the reef.
|
|
Crustaceans |
|
Slipper Lobster
Kupapa Slipper Lobster - Parribacus
antarcticus
 Not often
found hiding on the reef, but we were lucky. They are a treat -
almost as good as a 'real' lobster, so I kept it for my
supper. |
 Richard Dawkins has quite a lot
to say about this particular creature in his book 'Climbing Mount
Improbable'. The front end looks almost like the back end of any
other lobster, and he proposes that, sometime in the past, an
ancestor underwent a homeotic mutation (where a body part grows in
the wrong place) and grew part of its tail where its antennae should
be. It now has a very good survival tactic - lobsters escape by
clapping their tails under them, and shooting backwards very fast.
If a clever predator knows this, and aims at the 'tail' end of this
fellow, as he thinks, it will shoot straight backwards, away from
him.
|
|
Wing-Wing Spiny Rock Crab - Thalamita
crenata
You
need about a dozen of these to make a tasty soup.
The
'face' on its back is popularly supposed to be a memorial to a
drowned fisherman or sailor.
But you should be wary of other
small shore and shallow water crabs - some of them are poisonous.
|
|
Wing-Wing 
Also applies to other small edible
crabs - these come from the brackish water mangroves at
Tawin-Tawin. |
|
Well, we didn't get any of the
following that particular day, but I thought I would park them here,
until they get a home of their own. |
|
Kayabang 'Coconut Crab' - Cardisoma
hirtipes
|
|
|
Kayabang live in the coastal
coconut groves, digging large holes, that, like earthworm casts,
help circulate and aerate the soil.
Once a month, at full moon, dozens of
kayabang come out of the coconuts, and head straight to the
beach to mate and lay their eggs. They march purposefully in an
almost straight line, often through the town. At the last full moon,
one came straight through a group of us sitting outside Lourdes'
Food House, only to be trapped by Big Marty's foot. He told me it
made a good part of his breakfast. The local people go to the beach
at full moon with flaming torches made from dried coconut leaves,
and pick them up by the
dozen. |
|
Karaykay Ghost Crab - Ocypode
ceratophthalmus
Retreats to its hole
on the sandy beach just as you walk along. If you were quicker and
smarter than I am, you could maybe catch a dozen or two for
lunch.
|
|
Tatos Coconut
Robber Crab - Birgus latro
A kind of hermit crab that has taken
to land-living and gigantism. These are now rare in Siargao,
although there are occasional reports of catches. I have caught a
juvenile one, still living in a large Triton shell, on Mamon
island, about 45 minutes out from here. As he grew too big for that,
he would have taken up the 'naked' existence of the adults. They do
grow quite large, as you can see from this one attacking a
fully-grown coconut. |
|
Amimintik Mantis Shrimp - Odontodactylus
sp
  These are quite
delicious - but be careful of their front legs - they 'snap' very
quickly and are designed to catch fish or break snail shells. This
one's 'elbows' show it is a snail breaker. You can often hear
them snapping under water. |
Back to Coconut Studio Index Page
Richard Parker - Siargao Island -
February 2005 (Last updated Monday, May 08, 2006)
I welcome comments or corrections on my
site and opinions, so please feel free to email me at:
richardparker01@yahoo.com |
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