I
research and write this site for my own pleasure, but if you enjoyed reading it, and are
feeling particularly benevolent and generous,please consider investing a pittance to advertise
here, and support my studies.
Siargao Islandhas, on its eastern side, one of the
most extensive mangrove areas left in the country, a wide shallow
tidal area protected from the open sea by a long mountainous offshore island.
Numancia (now Del
Carmen) about 15 miles away from me, was the first town
established(by Spanish
religious orders) on the island, in the 1620s, about 100 years after
Magellan 'discovered' the Philippines.
The town was positioned
on a slight rise behind the big mangrove area, which provided
protection from the natives of Siargao, and from the frequent
slave-raids by 'Moros' from the Sulu Islands, further south.
For nearly 400 years, the good priests and their
'tamed' converts have lived there, cheekbyjowl with 'the most dangerous
crocodiles in the country'.
Antonio Pigafetta, chronicler to
Ferdinand Magellan, referred to the mainland cape just north west
of Siargao:
"at a cape
near Butuan are found shaggy men who are exceedingly great fighters
and archers. They use swords one palmo in length and eat raw human
hearts with juice of oranges or lemons."
The good Roman Catholic
priests were, hell for leather, converting
hearts and souls, with the occasional bit of violent military
assistance, but even a hardbitten agnostic like me doesn't believe
they were doing it to eat them with juice of oranges or
lemon.
Siargao Mangroves
But thankfully, there are
smaller mangrove areas nearer GL than that, and I'm more interested
in what the mangroves can provide in the way of food. The nearest
ones are at Union, just a couple of miles from General Luna,
and at Katangnan near Cloud 9
The Union
mangroves are in a tidal lagoon, with much saltier water than those
at Katangnan, on a river estuary. They are noticeably
different
Union - Enclosed Lagoon - Saline
Katangnan Estuary - Brackish
Dominated by Red
Mangrove
Other 'mangrove'
tree species on higher banks of mud, Nipa palms at the margins, and
coconut trees above the tide line.
Oysters on
roots
No
oysters
No Telescopium
snails
Family gathering
Telescopium
Libo-o
clams
No
clams
Sandy
base
Deep black
mud
Mangrove swamps are not welcoming places
Union Lagoon Mangroves:
Katangnan Estuary Mangroves
Left
to right above (both photo sets) - Red mangrove (Rhizophora
mangle)- Grey mangrove
(Avicennia marina)-
& species unknown
While mangroves
are undoubtedly productive (nearly on a par with temperate farmland
in terms of grams of carbon fixed per unit area) they are well below
tropical rainforests (up to 3 times as much) and coral reefs (3 to 6
times as much).
It was
estimatedthat 60-75% of all tropical coasts were until recently fringed
with mangroves, but they are disappearing at a very rapid
rate.
There are about 80
species, mostly unrelated, commonly called mangroves, but just two
dominate the SE Asian mangrove forests, the red and the grey
mangroves. Red mangroves grow sturdy prop roots, peppered with
breathing pores. Their fruit grows a root while still on the tree -
it simply drops and spears the mud. (If it doesn't, it floats). Grey
mangroves have flat roots with vertical aerial extensions up from
the mud to help them breathe.
Mangroves are also
chockful of defensive chemicals, such as tannins, many useful as
medicines. Perhaps it's no coincidence that Linnaeus named one
mangrove family Avicennia after Avicenna, a Persian-born Muslim,
perhaps the best-known doctor of his time. His Canon of Medicine,
which combined his own knowledge with Roman and Arabic medicine, was
a standard medical text in the medieval world.
In the Philippines
bakhawon mangrove bark is used for
tanning leather, and to give a red colour and tannin flavour to tuba
coconut wine. Some might say that the French learned from this
ancient technique when they began making red clarets and burgundy
wines.
Sure - There's food.....of sorts
Fiddler crabs - but tiny, and with a poisonous 'bite'
say the locals
Fiddler crabs use
their highly decorated claws to signal territorial and sexual
rights:
I scanned the above picture
from a textbook (Marine Biology - Peter Castro, Michael Huber - Wm C
Brown). By chance, I also took advantage of the program to scan and
optically read the accompanying article.
It read the above
picture, too, and happily interpreted and transcribed the
alphabetical characters the signals represent:
I will have to be very
convinced before I concede that I have not stumbled across the
ancient origins of some unfathomable Slavic
language.
Libo-o (Venus clam - very like N American quahogs)
- but you have to dig them up, open them, then squeeze their insides
to get rid of the ruminating mangrove mud - even then they're no
taste treat.
Alimango Mud Crabs (Scylla
serrata) these are safely tied up in the market -
they are very vicious indeed. They can weigh more than a kilo each.
Oysters - but these wouldn't make it
into a Western seafood restaurant - the flesh is a mere smear. They
grow 'vertically' into the tidal current, like the dorsal fin of a
fish, at about high tide mark.
They
cement themselves to the mangrove roots (or anything else they can
find at the right tidal level). The cement they use is so complex
(it sets under water, it glues mineral to wood, it resists
salt water, fresh water, sunlight, heat, etc) that no glue
manufacturer has come remotely near emulating it.
(But
see: Biomimicry - Janine M. Benyus (William Morrow & Co - New
York - 1997) - a young American lady, infused with all the idealism
and optimism that used to exist pre-George W. Bush, tackles just
this problem - particularly on byssus - the glue/thread that holds
mussels to rocks in even the strongest currents and
waves)
The
oyster shells have very sharp, tough edges, quite unlike the 'soft'
chitinous margins of Atlantic or Pacific oysters. A less tidal
mangrove swamp has more relaxed creatures, like hammer oysters and
coxcomb oysters, but even these are not very rewarding
finds.
These mangrove
oysters are also a very major obstacle to getting around the
mangroves at anything other than very low tide. A razor cut to the
mid-thigh can be somewhat painful, if not fatal
Liswe - Telescopium shells are frequent in the
mangroves, but they are also prized as a 'cash crop' so we didn't
find any. (This picture comes from Surigao City
Market).
You
knock off the pointed end, then parboil them and suck out the flesh
through the blunt end.
Unless you
'release' the holding muscles by boiling and softening them, you
cannot suck out the flesh.
In the Katangnan
mangroves, we came across this family gathering telescopium
shells.
I only walked round the very
margins of the Union mangroves, at low tide. I could see enough to
step from sandy sea-worm mound to sandy sea-worm mound, and miss the
muddy squelchy knee-deep bits in between. I didn't even attempt to
penetrate the mangrove forest, except at one point, when I saw a
genuine
undergrowth too difficult
to penetrate, to even that small distance.
And, Thank God, there are no
crocodiles left nowadays in these particular mangroves.
And we left before I thought
the mosquitoes would wake up. I didn’t know then that mangroves are
remarkably mosquito-free.
In
the Katangnan estuary, higher, drier and fresher parts of the
brackish water swamps are kinder, and lined by 'semi-domesticated'
nipa palm trees, in much demand as waterproof roofing
material.
Nipa
fruit are used to make 'nipa wine' distilled as pa-oroi or 'Gigaquit
Rum' - local moonshine.
Nipa palms have the kind of
flowers and fruit that make you think of 'The Thing from the Swamp'.
The flower stems are cut, bent over and tapped for their sugary sap,
just like coconut flowers for tuba. In the heat, the juice begins to
ferment even before it is collected in the morning. Then it is
distilled in a crude still, and by early afternoon it is
Pa-oroi, the local spirit drink.
At a mainland Mindanao town,
Lanuza, I asked to see the local nipa 'wine' distillery, imagining
copper stills, ancient craftsmen plying their ancient craft, spring
water, barrels of ageing spirits etc, and just a few wee drams of
the good stuff, just as one would find at a '12-year-old Glenlivet'
Scotch whisky distillery.
No such luck. I got up too
late, and missed the whole process, which went from fruit to
distributor in half a day.
But if you filter it through
coconut charcoal, add some butterscotch, and keep it for a month,
you can still pretend you have Glenlivet 12-year-old at $1.20 per
gallon.
But the rest of
the mangrove swamps are very unforgiving, as Joay's son is
finding.
Were Mangroves Ever A Good Habitat
for Man or His Ancestors ?
I think not.
I first wrote this
page a year ago, in early 2005, after my first real, searching visit
into the mangroves, when I was, frankly, intimidated by the very
idea of visiting a noisome swamp.
Since then, I've
found that the local people actually choose to build their
homes right in the middle of them, and that mangroves are far more
productive than I imagined.
Pilar, a small
town just north of General Luna, has extensive mangrove swamps
around it, and most of the 'garden suburbs' are built right in the
swamp.
It doesn't make
sense to build a house like the one above, twenty yards from the dry
land of the raised roadway/dike, if it doesn't have positive
advantages.
But it does make
sense - the salt water tide inhibits mosquitoes, and carries away
wastes, and the mangrove trees calm the weather - no fear of
tsunamis here. And you can fish in your back yard.
They don't have
cars, but having a boat port just by the house is
useful.
Aborigines in Northern Australia still forage among the
mangroves, for almost identical species as those shown above in the
Philippines.
See:
Aboriginal use of mangroves
which also details some of the uses (mostly as
timber or for medicines) for
mangrove plants.
It makes much mention of 'mangrove worms' - Teredo clam
species that bore through dead wood. Known as shipworms throughout
the tropics, they can cause great damage to wooden
ships.
In
Europe, we have a similar, but stone-boring clam,
Pholas. It doesn't harm ships much, but it sure buggers up
their harbours.
This
is a piece of kamagong - Pacific
ebony - that I once found on a beach, riddled with shipworm holes. I
had the idea of slicing it, and filling the holes with polyester
resin and Paua (abalone) shell fragments, to make attractive black
shell inlaid pendants, etc., keeping the 'sawdust' for black filling
powder for the resin. But some oil or other chemical in the wood
inhibited the resin from 'taking' and it remained liquid. Maybe the
shipworms liked it, even if the resin didn't.
But
Teredo 'worms' cannot tolerate fresh or brackish water. I leave my
boat at anchor by a small creek estuary, while fishermen just along
the shore religiously carry their boats onto dry shore every single
day.
In
the Katangnan estuary, many old dugout tree-trunk canoes are still
in use. That doesn't suggest they need worry too much about
shipworms. But half a mile around the corner into the open sea at
Cloud 9, a friend of mine lost his boat completely to
shipworms.
Worldwide Mangrove
Distribution
Source:(Marine Biology - Peter
Castro, Michael Huber - Wm C Brown)
Mangroves grow between the 30º latitudes both ways, giving
way to salt marshes at higher latitudes. There is quite a strong
correlation between the presence together of coral reefs and
mangroves. The larger areas in the Indian Ocean where mangroves are
missing are also the same areas that don't have coral
reefs.
The largest
concentrations of mangroves are in SE Asia, from Burma to New
Guinea, including the Northern Coast of Australia. They grow best on
shallow gently sloping coasts - much of South East Asia used to be
Sundaland or Sahul, shallow areas drowned when the glaciers in N
America and Europe melted.
Areas that are now
deserts, like most of Somalia, Arabia, the Northern coast of the
Gulf and Baluchistan, and much of India may have been fringed with
mangroves during their Pluvial Periods (Ice Ages further
north).
But it also may
have been ever so - due to steep coasts, anomalous colder currents -
we will have to find out. As for Baluchistan, I haven't the remotest
idea what its coastline is like - it's not the kind of place I
imagine for a beach holiday.
But Truly Modern Humans, about 70,000 years ago, and Homo erectus, nearly 2 million years before
that, must have travelled through there, going from Africa to
Asia somehow, without knowing what was beyond each
day's travel or wander, so perhaps it was once
inviting.
Mangroves are very good for other reasons, and
therefore good for us:
A vital protective
screen for the shoreline, 'smoothing' the effects of tsunamis and
storm surges, and filtering the run-off of soil and chemicals from
the land - allowing coral reefs to survive.
A 'nursery' for
fish, shrimps, crabs, and other fry, letting a few more of them
live until they go out into the open sea.
An interface
between open sea, brackish waters, and freshwater rivers - a
rapidly changing and stressful environment - just the sort of
ecotone between different environments that 'pushes' evolution
along, by offering constantly changing environmental
conditions.
A protective screen
for our ancestral women and children foraging in the open coral
lagoonsand seagrass beds. Around most of South and South-East
Asia, both tigers and lions were plentiful, until just a very few
years ago, together with rhinoceroses. In the Pleistocene, there
were certainly some equal or even more horrible
beasts
Asian lions and tigers
still haunt the semi-aquatic Sundarbans on the Bengal coast.
Panthera tigris lived
750kya in the Philippines - and the Philippine carabao, perhaps the
dumbest, most docile beast of burden in the world, had ancestors who
were generally your good old-fashioned, bad tempered, rip-snorting
water buffaloes.
But, there are also
saltwater crocodiles, (Crocodilus porosus), once frequent in
the mangroves, and an occasional danger in
the lagoons fronting them.
A captured one was kept in Numancia until it died of neglect a
year ago, and two years ago, I saw one splash off the bank and swim
under my boat in Sohoton Lagoon.
Many of the mangroves
along the coasts of SE Asia were cleared long ago, and, recently,
more have been sacrificed to allow fish farming - a classical case
of the powerful taking over the 'general good' and appropriating it
for their own short-term (lifetime) purposes. In more
'developed' areas of the Philippines, intensive fish farming has led
to huge fish kills, when disease has struck a large, overcrowded
captive fish populations of semi-clones.
Many fish ponds are now
reverting back to nature - it was a craze for a time, but the
infrastructure was never built to take the products to market, and
natural water systems cannot cope with massive overdoses of 'fish
food' and fish shit.
You cannot maintain a monoculture in conflict
with long-evolved natural systems - as Americans may find out soon
when their wheatlands in the Great Plains suffer the depletion of
the once-rich prairie soil and the Oglala fossilized aquifer dries
up. (And when the men, if there are any still left there, find their
sperm counts dwindling due to persistent agri-chemicals in their
drinking water - and their beer, of course).
They've only been
farming the Midwest for about 150 years, and San Joaquin Valley,
California for about 80.
See what happened
to the Aral Sea in Central Asia in only a few decades.
It took more time
for the Harappans of the Indus Valley, and the ancient Iraqis
(Sumerians, etc) to deplete their soils and salinize their
agriculture to death.But not
much.