|
The Payaw = FAD - Fish Attracting
Device
If the spear fishermen are the local
bow'n'arrow hunters in the lagoon, then the long-distance hook &
line fishermen going out to the Payaw (now with motorized
boats, but before, with nothing but a boat and a sail, or even just
a paddle) are, way out, the
hunter-heroes.
They are the ones who go out very long
distances, mostly alone, to catch the big pelagic schooling fish,
the tunas, the various mackerels, and the big game fish - blue
marlin and sailfish. |
|
And the very, very boring Bolis
(Skipjack Tuna)
But the very
boring Bolis can swim at up to 75km/hr in short bursts, and covers
huge distances in its annual migrations - up to 65km a day, and
never in straight lines. It's no Ferrari, but the Volkswagen of the
seas.
It is practically
warm-blooded, able to maintain a core temperature of 25ºC in water
down to 7ºC. It's special 'red muscles' along the sides are
particularly adapted for fast turns of speed, although they don't
taste so good as the white muscle.
|
|
Imagine you are a fairly large, but dumb fish, used to
following your mates on their seasonal pilgrimages all over the
Pacific Ocean. The Deep Blue Sea can get very boring indeed, even to
a pretty stupid fish (not much inclined to
introspection).
All around you is deep blue, a colour so empty that film
& TV-makers use it as a background when they want to paste in
something else (your TV weatherman is just acting, with his pointer
and his spiel, in front of a Deep Blue Sea neutral background. He is
looking at a film in front of him which will be back-screened, and
hoping that he dabs his pointer in the right
place).
As a migrating schooling fish your
universe is only this very monotonous Deep Blue, for long tedious
days. The only way you know which is UP is the dancing light on the
sea surface above, and the only way you know WHERE is to follow your
mates.
Suddenly you see, breaking the tedious twinkling silver
under-waves of the surface above, a dark object, floating, with
small darting fish around it.
A break in the monotony, you think (if you can think at all)
and then food - a snack. |
| But they're waiting for
you. |
|
At the Payaw |

|
|
The waiting fishermen know that the particular bit of
floating wood they've found, a
bamboo raft they've left drifting
for a month or so out in the ocean, an old water tank, or whatever, is going to
attract tiny plankton, and then small fish, crustaceans of
various kinds, jelly fish, sea snails, etc, who may be just
drifting around looking for company, or just for a bit of
shade from the terrible sun.
The fishermen have made (or found) just the kind of
'seed' needed to start a crystal growing, though they probably
don't know that. Just as a crystal grows out from a tiny
disturbance, they've touched off a small and growing zone of
active life in the big empty ocean.
They know that the little community created by the
'crystal seed' will attract the bigger fish, and they in turn
will attract the top predators.
General Luna's main Payaw is permanently anchored
about 15 km out in the Pacific Ocean, straight out through the
gap in the reef by Guyam Island - too far to show on the
GL map. It is a purpose made
raft of double steel tanks. |
|

|
In the summer season, fom April to September, when the
Amihan, the NE Monsoon has
abated, bamboo rafts are also set randomly afloat out at sea,
for exactly the same purpose.
Yet another Payaw
(the far one), is set about 30km out. Nobody could tell me the
exact distance, but it takes 6 litres of petrol to get there,
and the fishermen usually stay overnight, making it a two day
trip. |
|
And if you thought, you poor dumb fish, that you
were just dropping off into the Ocean Motorway Rest Area for a
snack, then beware - they've got a full menu of terrible fates
prepared for
you: | |
|
Palangre |
|
A
long, multi-hooked line. Sometimes the 80-200 hooks are baited with
real fish or squid, sometimes with bits of old feather or cotton on
hooks. This pulls up the medium predators, Bolis (Skipjack Tuna) and Yellowfin (Bigeye Tuna) in the daytime,
and Bodloy and Salindato (other medium-large Scombridae
- Mackerel family) when they come up to feed at
night.
But
the palangre only really works if
you are the first, solo fisherman to find this palaw or bit of floating wood. |
|
Crystalit |
|
If
there are two of you, then you share, and, to avoid time-wasting
line tangles, each of you uses just a handline. A good 2 hour
fishin' session should pull in anything from 100kg of fish up.
(Worth P4000, about $80, or maybe only half that, if you've caught
too many and the public market can't handle them so you have to go
and haggle with the fat fish buyer). |
|
|
When
you've got the best part of the main school, you troll about. You'd
probably use a Crystalit (a cockerel feather bait on a hook),
just trailed along about 50-100 metres behind the boat. (Not quite
gentlemanly dry-fly fishing on gin-clear Hampshire trout streams,
but damned near it).
But
often, you may be part of a band of up to 20 fishing boats,
out scouting the open oceans as a fleet. You spread around, just
within sight of each other until you come across something to break
the monotony of that big, endless ocean surface.
And
the first boats to find the floating wood
get the cream, before everyone else piles in. |
|
|
Sometimes, the
paon (bait) is a bangsi (flying fish) with
the line threaded through the mouth and body cavity. One hook is
placed at the tail, and another midway along. Wrap a little clear
plastic round the head to hold the eyes in as it is trailed
along.
You
can set a bangsi surface drift net for about 5 or 6 hours in the
morning, then, in the afternoon, collect your fresh bait. Then you
trail the bangsi through the water at the end of your
trolling line, at about 7 knots, and like a silver bullet, it would
catch the Devil himself. |
| After you've picked off the
butter from the sandwich, you go for the big ones -
they'll be a bit deeper and a bit distant from the mob around the
floating wood: |
|
Malasugi (Blue Marlin) and
Liplipan (Sailfish) are not gentleman swordsmen.
|
|
|
They both have
long bills (upper snouts) with saw-tooth edges and rough leathery
skins, tough enough to make into very usable swords for human
battles. But they don't lunge or parry like a fencing gentleman;
they give a good hard slap with a back-and-forth, like a top-rank
pub bully-brawler. Errol Flynn or Douglas Fairbanks Jr wouldn't have
stood a chance against them. |
|
|
And the fishermen of Siargao are not gentleman
anglers. |
|
They use a
fiendishly simple device called Rentex - a hookless line with a bit of old
fluff - maybe some old cotton thread, or combed-out rags; maybe some
of that plastic frill you put around Christmas cakes, about 6-10"
long - anything tough, long, and tangle-able. That first slap of the
bill and the following back-and-forth gets it twisted and tangled;
the first act in the drama of the end of the big fish's life.
And the big fish
try to worry off the tangle of Rentex, like a puppy with wool (or toilet
paper) round its nose, and get more entangled. Their mouths are
maybe closed, so no oxygenated water gets through to their gills,
and they suffocate to death. Or they may dive, and dive again, and
just exhaust themselves. Meanwhile, the fisherman just holds on
patiently, paying out line, and winding in as necessary.
|

|
|
The Indo-Pacific
sailfish (Istiophorus platypterus) can exceed 70mph for short
periods. Perhaps you're better at maths than I am - playing the
force of a 40kg fish travelling at 110km/hr with a handline is not
for ninnies - or gentleman anglers.
There's a technique to local lambo - line fishing - a GL fisherman
couldn't possibly afford a Michigan- (or even a Taiwan-) made
casting-reel and carbon/fiberglass rod, so he winds the line round
his bent knee in the boat, holding the line braced and taut in his
fist, (wound three times, and running parallel past his elbow) and
casts off line, from his knee, when he needs
to. |
|
No, the fishermen of Siargao are certainly not
gentleman anglers. Nor was St. Peter. |
|
Another (very
unsporting) method of catching the big pelagic fish is
described in
Poisoning Pigeons in the Park
|
|
Just two years
ago, Crisanto, a wizened, sun-blackened old man of 67, set out from
the back of Dako Island (on the outer GL reef) - in a small
8ft baroto, with a friend, and a couple of hand-lines.
see
GL map
They came back six
hours later, towing a 180kg blue marlin.
It took a small tuna they had just hooked, so they played it for
four hours. It took six of their juniors to carry it up the
beach. |
|
|

|
Makes you wonder a
bit, doesn't it, about those American 'big game fish
sportsmen', harnessed into special swivelling armchairs, with
carbon fibre rods, titanium reels, high-tech swivelling lures
designed by Japanese manga comic artists, in hired boats with
radar and a character captain, costing hundreds of dollars a day,
with refrigerated bars and drinks dispensed by butlers. |

|
|
Just what do they think they are proving
? |
Back to Coconut
Studio Index Page
Richard Parker - Siargao Island -
April 2005 (Last updated Thursday, April 27, 2006)
I welcome comments or corrections on my
site and opinions, so please feel free to email me at:
richardparker01@yahoo.com
|