| From Poot-Poot to Fish Sauce to Umami to
MSG |
|
The ‘Philippines Handbook’
(Moon Publications,
California - 1993) - says about General Luna: 'Try poot-poot a delicious local fish
dish'. So does
the Lonely Planet Guide
So, if a naive tourist asks for 'a bowl of
poot-poot, please' he or she is greeted only with polite stares and
barely concealed giggles. No poot-poot arrives. The reason?
Filipinos really don't like to give the 'wrong' answer - a negative,
a refusal, so on.
And everybody knows that poot-poot ginamos from GL is world-famous,
don't they? So why is this dumb, ignorant incomer asking for a bowl
of it ? With nothing else ? What to say?
The baffled tourist goes away (as I did)
thinking 'What dumb, ignorant people these are'.
GL’s Poot-Poot Ginamos is world famous (well, at
least to parts of Manila, which is far enough).
"Uncle Philip in Arizona was
craving for poot-poot ginamos. It is a rare Surigao
delicacy made of fries (newly hatched fishes) no bigger than a
pinhead and found only near the Philippine Deep. Like caviar,
a jar costs hundreds and these are available only during
certain times of the year. I put my foot down and told my
parents I'm not bringing any, "it's not environment-friendly"
They prevailed on me to bring two jars of bagoong,
instead". A Filipina writing about pasalubong (traveller's
gifts) | |
|
Ginamos is a basic fish
sauce, made from ¾ poot-poot
(anchovy fry) and ¼ sea salt, mixed carefully, and kept in a jar for
as long as you need. The fish progressively 'ferments' in the
jar until it has practically disintegrated.
In other parts of the Philippines
the liquor is drained off as 'patis', a very common Filipino table
condiment, and the residue packed as 'bago'ong' pungent fish paste, often
spiced as well.
Street vendors carry 'bago'ong' as an essential
accompaniment for sliced green mango - the salty fish taste
perfectly complements the tart mango. It is also used as a dipping
sauce, mixed with the juice of 'calamansi' the Filipino
'lemon'.
'What strange eating habits these
far-away exotic peoples have!' - you might say. Well,
don't. |
| Fish sauce is familiar all over
the Far East, (and it, or its equivalents, are essential in
Western cooking too).
|
| Shottsuru |
Japan |
| Nam Pla |
Thailand |
| Nuoc Mam |
Vietnam |
| Nga Pi |
Burma |
| Garum |
Ancient Rome |
| Salted Anchovies |
Europe |
| Bacalao (Salted Cod) |
Spain, Portugal and huge areas of
West Africa | |
Fish sauce is an essential ingredient of
the familar paste and sauces shown on the right.
'Patum Peperium' is a snobbish version of fish paste. It
used to come in little porcelain pots (now plastic) and is the
sort of thing fond parents sent to their boarding-school brats. I
carry some as comfort food - it costs £6.00 per 71gm jar - $160
per kilo.
Lea & Perrins Worcestershire Sauce is well-known
worldwide.
Mother's Best is a pale imitation of the real thing - just
like 'Mother's' anything is.
|
And the reason for its
popularity ?
|
UMAMI
The fifth
taste.
"It’s usually said that the human tongue can
detect only four basic tastes: sweet, sour, bitter and salty, and
that all tastes are combinations of these. Many specialists now
believe that taste is actually more complicated than this, with the
taste buds being helped along by sense of smell, by the feel of
substances in the mouth and even by the noise that food makes when
we chew it.
In recent years some workers (about a century ago in Japan, so not really acceptable to
Real Scientists) have added a fifth taste,
umami, to the other four, though western
food scientists are divided about whether it really exists or not.
It has been suggested that the taste is triggered by compounds of
some amino acids, such as glutamates or aspartates, especially the
flavour-enhancing substance monosodium glutamate.
Both the word and the concept are Japanese, and
in Japan are of some antiquity. Umami is hard to translate,
to judge by the number of English words that have been suggested as
equivalents, such as savoury, essence, pungent,
deliciousness, and meaty. It’s sometimes associated
with a feeling of perfect quality in a taste, or of some special
emotional circumstance in which a taste is experienced. It is also
said to involve all the senses, not just that of taste. There’s more
than a suggestion of a spiritual or mystical quality about the
word". World Wide Words © Michael Quinion |
At the beginning of the twentieth century, Professor Kikunae
Ikeda of Tokyo Imperial University was thinking about the taste of
food: "There is a taste which is common to asparagus, tomatoes,
cheese and meat but which is not one of the four well-known tastes
of sweet, sour, bitter and salty."
It was in 1907 that Professor Ikeda started his experiments to
identify what the source of this distinctive taste was. He
knew that it was present in the "broth" made from kombu (a type of
seaweed) found in traditional Japanese cuisine. Starting with a
tremendous quantity of kombu
broth, he succeeded in extracting crystals of glutamic acid (or
glutamate). Glutamate is an amino acid, and is a building block of
protein. Professor Ikeda found that glutamate had a distinctive
taste, different from sweet, sour, bitter and salty, and he named it
"umami". 100 grams of dried kombu
contain about 1 gram of glutamate. The
Discovery of Umami
And so,
Monosodium Glutamate was born |
Discovery of new taste receptor
::
fifth taste responds to amino acids
Humans can recognize five tastes: bitter, salty, sour, sweet
and umami. Umami is the most difficult to describe (it's the flavor
associated with monosodium glutamate). Now, researchers led by
Charles S. Zuker and Nicholas J. P. Ryba have identified a taste
receptor that responds to amino acids, including umami. Given that
many amino acids are essential components of our diet, this work may
also aid understanding of how animals, including humans, regulate
nutritional intake to achieve a balanced diet.
Zuker's and Ryba's groups previously collaborated in
discovering sweet and bitter taste receptors.
According to Zuker, discovery of the amino acid taste receptor
will have important implications for understanding the machinery of
taste. "When Nick Ryba and I began this collaboration a bit
over four years ago, our ultimate goal was to understand how the
brain knows what you just tasted," he said. "We wanted to
discover how taste receptor cells are activated and how their
signals travel to the brain to produce specific taste perceptions.
"To do that, we first needed to define the different
taste modalities at a cellular level, so that we could then follow
their connectivity maps to the brain. The "Holy Grail" in
this field has been the receptors, and now that we know the
receptors underlying three modalities - sweet, bitter and amino acid
- we can begin to work on our original goal, to map this system to
understand how taste is encoded," Zuker said.
Homing
In On a Receptor for the Fifth Taste |
So What Exactly, Is Monosodium Glutamate?
|
What is MSG? |
Monosodium glutamate (MSG) is the sodium salt of
glutamic acid, an amino acid which is present in all
protein. |
|
How is it
made? |
Glutamate is produced through fermentation, a process
used in making beer, vinegar, soy sauce and yogurt. The process
begins with natural products such as molasses from sugar cane or
sugar beets and food starch from tapioca or
cereals. |
|
Does the human body
metabolize monosodium glutamate added to foods differently from the
glutamate occurring naturally in foods? |
No. The
glutamate naturally present in food and the glutamate derived from
MSG are identical. They are digested and absorbed in the same way
from the intestine. Once they are ingested, our bodies make no
distinction between glutamate from foods such as tomatoes and
glutamate from MSG. In fact, research has shown that glutamate from
food or from MSG is important for the normal functioning of the
digestive system. This is not absolutely
true - the glutamates in our bodies are not artificially reduced to
a single chemical. On the other hand, almost every single protein we
ever cook is changed chemically or physically - that is what gives
cooked food its flavours.
|
|
Will the addition of
more MSG make food taste better? |
The
taste of MSG, like the taste of salt, has a self-limiting
characteristic. Only a small amount of MSG is needed to achieve
optimum flavor. Further addition of MSG has little or no beneficial
effect. |
|
Does MSG allow food
manufacturers to substitute inferior or poor quality ingredients for
high quality ingredients? |
No.
MSG can only enhance the original taste of good
food.
Just like make-up can only enhance a truly
beautiful woman? |
|
In which foods is MSG
used? |
MSG
can be used in many savoury dishes, on meat, fish, poultry and many
vegetables, and in sauces, soups and marinades. |
|
Is the amount of
glutamate added to foods for flavor far greater than the amount of
glutamate found naturally in foods? |
The glutamate added to foods for flavor represents
only a small fraction of the total amount of glutamate consumed in
the average daily diet. The average person consumes between 10 and
20 grams of glutamate daily. The average added intake of glutamate
from MSG amounts to just 0.5 - 1.5 grams per
day. |
|
Is MSG safe? |
Yes. Research in Europe, the United States and Asia
clearly shows that MSG used in prepared foods or as a condiment is
safe for humans of all ages. |
|
Is MSG safe for
infants? |
Yes. Scientific studies show that infants metabolise
MSG in just the same way as adults. In fact, human breast milk
contains a much higher level of glutamate than cow's
milk. |
| www.glutamate.org/media/faq.htm (which is why I have added my own
comments in italics) |
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Richard Parker - Siargao Island -
April 2005 (Last
updated Monday, May 08, 2006)
I welcome comments or corrections on my site
and opinions, so please feel free to email me at: richardparker01@yahoo.com
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